Fashion Updates | Fibers / Yarns Innovations

Vicuña Wool: Fibre of God

Published: October 6, 2023
Author: Fashion Value Chain

Vicuña wool is considered the rarest and most expensive legal wool in the world. It is obtained from the South American vicuña, an animal of the family of Camelidae, which lives in the Andes at altitudes of 3,200 meters and above between Peru and northern Chile. 

Here are some characteristics of vicuña wool:

Cost: Vicuña wool is the most expensive legal wool in the world, with a raw kilo reaching $300 to $500 depending on the quality. Today, vicuña wool can cost between $399 and $600 per kilo, compared to cashmere which is around $80 per kilo.

fibre diameter: Vicuña wool has the second smallest fibre diameter of all animal hair, after shahtoosh.

Quality: The highest quality vicuña wool has a thickness of 12-14 microns and the highest comfort factor of all naturally obtained fibres.

Colour: The vicuna is characterized by its brown cinnamon colour in the back and side of the body, along the neck and in the back portion of the head.

Vicuña wool is strong and resilient, but it is highly sensitive to chemicals and is generally used in its natural color. The hair of the vicuña is used to make a variety of products, including sweaters, scarves, and shawls. Despite its high cost, many people consider vicuña wool to be worth the investment due to its softness and rarity.

Harvesting and processing vicuña wool involves several steps, which are regulated to ensure the sustainability and conservation of the vicuña population.

Harvesting: Vicuña wool is traditionally harvested through a process known as shearing. This involves gently clipping the wool from the animal’s underbelly and chest. 

Indigenous communities, who have a deep understanding of the unique properties of vicuña wool, often rely on the vicuña for their livelihoods and have developed traditional techniques for harvesting.

Sorting: Before processing, the down hair is separated from the guard hair by sorting. This ensures that only the finest and softest fibres are used.

Spinning: After sorting, the down hairs are spun into yarn. This process involves twisting the fibres together to create a continuous thread.

Weaving or knitting: The spun yarn is then used to create various products, such as socks, sweaters, scarves, and shawls. These products can be woven or knitted, depending on the desired outcome.

It’s important to note that the harvesting and processing of vicuña wool is heavily regulated by international conventions. Only a small quantity of vicuña fibre is harvested annually to ensure the conservation of the vicuña population.

The traditional techniques and cultural significance of vicuña wool are being preserved, even as the industry becomes more industrialized and commercialized. Efforts are being made to ensure the sustainable management and conservation of the vicuña population.

Vicuña wool is known for its unique and luxurious characteristics. Here are some of the key features of vicuña wool:

Fibre diameter: Vicuña wool has the second smallest fibre diameter of all animal hair, after shahtoosh. The down hair of the vicuña used for the production of vicuña wool is, with an average hair diameter of 11–13.5 microns, one of the finest animal hairs.

Quality: The highest quality vicuña wool has a thickness of 12-14 microns and the highest comfort factor of all naturally obtained fibres. The surface structure of the fibre has scales as in sheep wool, and the scale spacing is between 7 and 14 scale rings per 100 microns.

Colour: The vicuña is characterized by its brown cinnamon colour in the back and side of the body, along the neck and in the back portion of the head.

Cost: Vicuña wool is the most expensive legal wool in the world, with a raw kilo reaching $300 to $500 depending on the quality. Today, vicuña wool can cost between $399 and $600 per kilo, compared to cashmere which is around $80 per kilo.

Harvesting: Vicuña wool is traditionally harvested through a process known as shearing. This involves gently clipping the wool from the animal’s underbelly and chest. The harvesting process is heavily regulated by international convention, and only a small quantity of vicuña fibre is harvested annually to ensure the conservation of the vicuña population.

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