Princess Diana’s enduring fashion influence continues to captivate enthusiasts, with one of her iconic looks set to hit the auction block. The renowned “black sheep” sweater, famously worn by Lady Diana Spencer during her engagement to King Charles III at a polo match in 1981, will take center stage at Sotheby’s Fashion Icons auction in New York. Scheduled to run from August 31 to September 14, the original sweater, expected to fetch between $50,000 and $80,000, will be displayed at the auction house starting September 7, coinciding with the commencement of New York Fashion Week.
Sotheby’s global head of fashion and accessories, Cynthia Houlton, described the garment as an exceptional piece, meticulously preserved, carrying the essence of Princess Diana’s grace and fashion sensibility. The auction aims to celebrate not only this historic sweater, but also other culturally significant clothing items, in a dialogue that pays tribute to their impact.
The knitted wool crew neck sweater, featuring rows of white sheep and one black sheep on the front, was crafted by artists Sally Muir and Joanna Osborne for their knitwear label, Warm & Wonderful, in 1979. Diana’s sighting in the sweater catapulted its popularity, granting the small clothing business immense attention and admiration. Muir and Osborne expressed their surprise at seeing Lady Diana Spencer gracing the front page of a Sunday newspaper wearing their creation, leading to a surge in sales and public awareness.
Shortly after Diana’s viral appearance in the sweater, Muir and Osborne received a letter from Buckingham Palace, notifying them of a small tear in one of the cuffs and requesting either a repair or replacement. Graciously, they crafted a brand-new sweater for Diana, positioning the black sheep slightly higher on the new garment than on the original. The grateful palace later expressed its gratitude to the designers.
The original sweater, hidden away in a small box next to a cotton bedspread, was rediscovered by Muir and Osborne in their attic earlier this year. The media has long speculated on the symbolism behind Diana’s fashion choices, and in the case of the black sheep sweater, some wonder if it reflects her complex relationship with the royal family. Others interpret it as an homage to the British countryside and its agricultural heritage.
An iteration of the sweater is currently exhibited in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. Although Warm & Wonderful ceased production of the lone black sheep style in 1994, they resumed making replicas of the design in 2020, which are still available for pre-order online. A replica was also tailored for actor Emma Corrin, who portrayed Diana in the popular Netflix drama series, “The Crown.”
This upcoming auction not only offers an opportunity to acquire a treasured piece of Princess Diana’s style, but also represents a celebration of her lasting impact on the fashion landscape.
