Pattern Making and Selection of Garment as Per Body Type

1. Pattern making
   1.1 Introduction
   Production of a garment consist of different process. Fit of the garment is an important factor
   for acceptance and rejection of a garment. Pattern making plays important and primary role in
   pattern making.
   1.2 Tools for pattern making
   There are so many pattern making tools in apparel industry. Are pointed out in below:
2. Straight pins,
3. Straight pin holder,
4. Scissors,
5. Pencils and pens,
6. Rulers,
7. Curve rules,
8. Hanger hooks or ringers,
9. Pushpins,
10. Magic mend scotch tape,
11. Black twill tape,
12. Notcher,
13. Tracing wheels,
14. Awl,
15. Metal weight,
16. Measuring tape,
17. Tailor’s chalk. 2
    1.3 Methods of Pattern Making
    Pattern making involves Four methods-
18. knock-off
    In this method pattern pieces are traced out from the ready garment
19. Drafting
    It involves measurements derived from sizing system or measurements taken on a person, dress and body form. Accurate pattern will be prepared in this method. Measurements marked on a paper like chest, waist, hip and ease etc. and constructions marked to make a pattern.
20. Draping
    It involves draping of 2D piece of fabric around the body form to create 3D pattern. Muslin fabric is used to make the pattern of 3D garment then it transferred to paper to make a garment.
21. Flat paper pattern making
    It involves the development of the basic pattern with comfort and ease to fit person or body form. A basic block is use to create designs in flat pattern. Seam allowance is not added in this method. Following are three types of flat pattern technique:
    a) Pivot method
    In this method dart are shifted via pivot point or bust point
    b) Slash and spread method
    In this method darts are shifted along with pattern by slashing and spreading method for getting desired position of the dart.
    c) Measurement method
    In this method pattern is made when darts have to remain in same position at the seam line and dart width is divided into 2 or 3 darts.
    1.4 Types of darts
22. Functional dart
    Fictional darts are used for functional purpose. These darts are given for the fitting of the
    garment. these are in triangular folds for making proper fitted garment.
23. Decorative dart
    Decorative darts not for functional purpose, these are only for decorative purpose. 3

1.5 Rules for Dart Location
● Minimum length of the darts – The fitting darts of the front bodice must extend to the bust circle. This is the minimum length.
● Maximum length of the darts – All the fitting darts must extend to the bust circle but should not lengthen outside the bust point.

1.6 Tips for the garment construction
● Choose good quality fabric
● Prewash the fabric before constructing it
● Learn to cut the fabric
● Get good quality sewing machine
● Make use of ironing machine when required

● Make use of interface where ever necessary to give stiffness to the garment
● Take care of sewing machine
● Learn to make garments from basic patterns
● Get all tolls of pattern making and garment construction
● Buy good quality trims and accessories
● Hang the garments before hem finishing
● Check loose thread trails and trim away 4
● Don’t leave seam allowance more than 2 inch
● At side seam go half inches upward from dart for avoiding inverted curvy shape to waist line.
● Choose proper cups size for your garment or choose proper bra

1.7 Pattern making in today’s world
Pattern making has become an easy task today with the use of computers. Nowadays there are various software available in the market to meet the needs of manufacturers. Various software like Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech, OptiTex etc. are used. This software has made the job of pattern master easy. They have made the prototyping process more cost effective and less time consuming.

2. Selection of Garments as Per Body Shape
   2.1 Introduction
   Body shape is determined by your bone structure, muscle and tissue distribution, mostly inherited through your genes. However, if you don’t like your shape or it’s not in fashion, changing your silhouette through style, garment construction and fabric can help.
   2.2 Most Common 5 Body Shape
3. Rectangle figure
4. Pear figure
5. Apple figure
6. Athletic or wedge figure
7. Hourglass figure
8. Rectangle shape:
   If your waist measurement doesn’t differ from your bust or hip measurement, you have a rectangular or square body shape! This is where you want to define that waist and create the illusion of a waist.
   Dressing
   Look for any waist-defining pieces such as a waist belt, a cinched jacket, or color-blocking pieces that break up the rectangle.
9. Pear figure
   If you are pear-shaped, your hips are wider than your upper body Dressing
   Stick to a single-color palette to create a lean, overall look. If you want to draw attention away from your hips, look for full skirts that will help balance your proportions.
10. Apple figure
    These type shape had rounded body shape waist is wider than your bust and hips Dressing
    Look for fabrics that don’t cling but fit close to your body – soft cotton or silk fabrics will do well. An A-line cut dress or empire waistline can help reduce roundness and avoid cuts that mimic your shape e.g. Scoop necklines. Focus on accentuating your legs with a pair of heels or a short skirt to show off your legs and avoid belts that draw attention to your waist.
11. Athletic or wedge figure
    If you have an athletic or wedge shape, you’ll find that your shoulder and hip measurements are nearly the same.
    Dressing
    The goal is to balance out your broad upper half and keep the volume on the top or bottom. Show off your well-defined décolletage and upper half with halter necks, off-the-shoulder, strapless and racerback styles. For bottom-Elongate your legs with a mini-length skirt or go for fitted pants to balance your lower half and create the illusion of a waist. If you’re comfortable, high leg split styles are also the way to go to show off your other curves.
12. Hourglass figure
    An hourglass-shaped body is someone who has evenly proportioned shoulders and waistline with a thin midsection.
    Dressing
    If you have an hourglass body shape – embrace those curves! Avoid baggy clothing and ruffles that appear around your shoulders and bust. High waisted pants and pencil skirts are a great staple item for your wardrobe. Look at dresses that cling to your body and create a dynamic silhouette – the mermaid style dress is a perfect choice for the hourglass figure. 5

References

1. Mithlesh bhati. Jun 2011. Methods of Pattern Making https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/5658/basics-of-pattern-making retrieved on march 2, 2023
2. Mayedul Islam. List of Pattern Making Tools and Their Uses,
   https://garmentsmerchandising.com/pattern-making-tools-list-uses/retrieved on march 2, 2023.
3. Apparel branders, https://www.apparelbranders.com/page-13-flat-pattern-technique-types-dart retrieved on march 3, 2023.
4. Sarina Tariq , January 4, 2023 https://sewguide.com/dressmaking-tailoring-tips/ retrieved on march 4, 2023.
5. 13 Jul 2021, https://londonimageinstitute.com/how-to-dress-for-your-body-shape/ retrieved on march 4, 2023.