Industry Updates

OEKO-TEX® – New Regulations 2025

Published: February 5, 2025
Author: Fashion Value Chain

OEKO-TEX®’s goal is still to promote trust in the leather and textile industries. The OEKO-TEX® Association has revised its testing criteria, limit values, and guidelines for its certifications in light of the most recent scientific research and legislative developments because confidence depends on continually high standards. Important modifications include tougher BPA restrictions under OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, stringent transparency standards for leather supply chains under OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD, and improved organic cotton certification through OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON, which is included in OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN. Verification of biodegradability and commodity chemicals will be part of the extended OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT. After the transition period, the updated standards will go into effect on April 1, 2025.

STANDARD 100: New organic cotton rule and BPA safety 

The OEKO-TEX® community places a high value on openness and clear communication. Claims of “GMO-free” or “organic” cotton will no longer be included in the scope of the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification as of April 1, 2025. With OEKO TEX® ORGANIC COTTON, cotton may now be certified as “organic.” This decision was made to improve control of certified organic cotton, an area where fraud is common, and is motivated by the commitment to upholding the highest standards of safety and compliance. The goal of OEKO-TEX® is to certify only organic cotton that is truly reliable. Cotton materials are specifically affected by this change. Wool, hemp, linen, and other organic materials are unharmed.

After consultation with internal and external toxicologists, OEKO-TEX® reduced the limit value of Bisphenol A (BPA) from 100 to 10mg/kg. The chemical was often found in tests of textiles that are worn directly on the skin. Endocrinologists and the WHO categorize BPA as an endocrine disruptor, a substance that, if it enters the body even in small amounts, can change the hormonal system. 

LEATHER STANDARD: Ahead of Europe’s Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) 

In May 2024, the European Commission approved a new rule as part of the 2030 EU Biodiversity Strategy and the European Green Deal. The European Deforestation Regulation’s (EUDR) need for leather supply chain openness is one of the biggest obstacles. To make sure that leather goods don’t contribute to deforestation, businesses need to track their origins. Originally scheduled to take effect at the end of 2024, the EUDR was delayed by one year in November 2024. To obtain OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD certification, however, hides and leather goods derived from cattle and calves must be accompanied by proof of provenance, such as delivery notes from the slaughterhouse.

MADE IN GREEN: Adding ORGANIC COTTON certification option 

In addition to STANDARD 100 and LEATHER STANDARD, OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON is recognized as a product certificate by the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN mark. Supply chain traceability and verification from farm to product with responsible and safe production are two advantages of both OEKO-TEX® standards that can be combined by businesses who have their cotton products certified.

STeP: Enhanced ZDHC cooperation boosting sustainability in textiles and leather 

Customers of OEKO-TEX® STeP can now take part in the ZDHC Supplier to Zero Program. By optimizing standards and solutions through collaborative efforts, ZDHC and OEKO-TEX® hope to empower the textile, garment, footwear, and leather industries to improve their environmental impact. In an effort to increase the impact, holders of OEKO-TEX® STeP certificates can now take part in the ZDHC Supplier to Zero Program. For recognition under the Supplier to Zero Program, businesses can submit their STeP certificate and report to the ZDHC Supplier Platform.

ECO PASSPORT: Expanding scope and highlighting biodegradability 

Starting in 2025, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT will expand its certification scope beyond chemicals specialised for textile and leather applications to include commodity and maintenance chemicals.

Commodity chemicals, widely produced and used at the start of supply chains, will enable broader monitoring across the textile and leather sector. This expansion aims to phase out harmful substances earlier, enhance worker safety and prioritise environmental protection. Additionally, second-life commodity chemicals will be subject to more frequent testing to ensure quality. 

ECO PASSPORT customers will be able highlight the biodegradability of their chemical products on their certificates. OEKO-TEX® considers biodegradability a key factor in sustainable textile and leather production, with greater impact the earlier it is implemented in the supply chain. Certified surfactants, softeners or complexing agents must provide proof of biodegradability, verified either by an OEKO-TEX® institute or an approved third party. Existing certified products in these categories have a one-year transition period to comply. 

Related Posts