Denim, the workhorse fabric of generations, is undergoing a radical transformation. No longer just a simple indigo-dyed cotton twill, denim is being reimagined through cutting-edge performance fabrics, a growing appetite for comfortable and versatile designs, and an unwavering commitment to sustainable production. Mills are pushing the boundaries of what’s possible, writing a thrilling new chapter in denim’s storied past.
This pursuit of innovation, however, requires a delicate balancing act between visionary thinking and fiscal prudence. Recent discussions at Bluezone in Munich highlighted the challenges and opportunities facing Turkish mills as they navigate this landscape.
Forward-thinking is key. Isko, for example, anticipates market needs rather than simply reacting to current trends. Their collaboration with Sanko Group’s Re&Up, a circular textile venture, demonstrates this proactive approach. Re&Up not only addresses the industry’s waste problem but also prepares Isko’s clients for upcoming EU regulations mandating recycled content in fabrics. Isko has revamped its entire product line, incorporating recycled cotton and polyester without sacrificing the performance or feel of its denim. “Our solution is using recycled materials without compromising the behaviour of denim,” explains Isko’s category leader. The focus remains on fashion and the authentic denim experience.
Isko’s “product-driven” philosophy leads them to constantly explore new avenues. MultiTouch, their latest innovation, exemplifies this. This unique blend of yarn finishing and engineering empowers designers to achieve a variety of effects – from 3D textures to soft hand feels – with a single fabric, streamlining collections and simplifying management.
Calik Denim emphasizes both visual and hidden properties in their innovations. Their R&D team has perfected technologies like E-Last, which stabilizes shrinkage in high-stretch denim, saving garment manufacturers time and money while ensuring consistency. “Our aim is always to be a kind of solution partner for our customers and stakeholders,” says Calik’s sales manager.
Efficiency is paramount at Orta. They believe innovation should never compromise sustainability or create new problems. Finding the balance between exciting new technologies and affordability for customers is crucial. Orta’s collaboration with Citizens of Humanity on a collection using Pili’s Eco-Indigo, a bacteria-based indigo dye, highlights the power of partnerships. This project, years in the making, gained momentum after securing significant funding and attracting the support of Citizens of Humanity, demonstrating how committed clients can drive innovation.
Timing is everything. Calik’s experience with regenerative cotton, initially met with low demand, underscores the importance of understanding market readiness. Isko echoes this sentiment, emphasizing the rigorous testing and development process before launching any new concept.
Denim companies are investing heavily in innovation, comparable to industries like automotive and pharmaceuticals, explains Sharabati Denim’s global marketing manager. These investments span technologies, machinery, increased capacity, and sustainability initiatives, including new water treatment facilities. Sharabati’s new app, digitizing its collection and print library, reflects this commitment, providing a valuable tool for clients, even if the return on investment isn’t immediate.
In the fast-paced world of fashion, continuous innovation is essential for survival. Unlike the automotive industry, where innovations can last for years, fashion demands constant novelty. This dynamic environment requires careful and strategic investment to maintain competitiveness in a sometimes volatile market.
