Fashion Value Chain Talks with Mr. N. Chandran, Chairman, Eastman Exports
Can you provide an overview of Eastman Exports and its mission in the garment and apparel industry?
We started our textile business with a small home-grown lab and later set up a larger processing unit. In the early 1980s, we seized the opportunity to enter the export industry. Today, we serve as a trusted supplier of garments to premium, luxury fashion brands across the globe. This has been possible because of our ability to constantly monitor market trends, innovate, and offer end-to-end service to clients.
We continuously look to effectively drive our internal systems and business processes besides forging strategic external networks across the value chain.
As a company known for ethically sourced and sustainable garments, what measures have Eastman Exports taken to ensure ethical sourcing throughout its supply chain?
We are certified by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Fairtrade and Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) cotton. These certifications require us to comply with specific standards and undergo rigorous audits to ensure compliance. For instance, BCI primarily focuses on sustainable cotton production, Fairtrade emphasizes fair trade practices and better livelihoods for farmers, and GOTS focuses on the certification of organic textiles. Certifications such as these encourage transparency throughout the supply chain by tracing and verifying the origin and production methods of the materials used. They also give us access to sustainable and ethical materials and meet industry best practices. Further, Eastman Exports and its affiliates have built a robust infrastructure through forward and backward integration, providing capacity and capability across the entire value chain.
Could you explain the significance of being a member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and how it aligns with Eastman Exports’ values and goals?
Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), as you are aware, is a global multi-stakeholder non-profit alliance for the consumer goods industry. Being one of its first members from India represents our work in making tangible improvements in adoption, verification and transparency in our manufacturing processes. I am happy to share that SAC has recently conferred us with the Progressive Plus certification for the second consecutive year. This is another testimony to our commitment towards ethical business, the environment and the people that work with us.
The HIGG index tool is considered a universal tool for measuring the apparel industry’s performance. How does Eastman Exports utilize this tool and what benefits does it provide for the company?
The HIGG Index is a standardized framework developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) that provides a comprehensive assessment of the environmental and social impacts of garment manufacturing processes. It offers a comprehensive set of tools to measure sustainability performance throughout the value chain, enabling us to assess and address potential risks while enhancing resilience. Additionally, it promotes industry-wide alignment on sustainability discussions, ensuring that all players are on the same page. Moreover, it helps us build our reputation and attract more business as sustainability becomes an increasingly important factor, especially in the West.
Eastman Exports has been praised for its water conservation efforts. Could you elaborate on the initiatives and technologies implemented by the company to minimize water usage and achieve a water-positive status by 2030?
Eastman Exports is one of India’s first textile companies to introduce Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) methods for conserving and reusing wastewater. Currently, we recycle 3-4 million litres of wastewater every day and less than 10% of freshwater is withdrawn from natural resources. Further, the salt generated in the production process is reused using the most sophisticated technologies. This will certainly help us become a water-positive entity in the stipulated time.
In terms of water conservation, what specific actions does Eastman Exports take within its dyeing facility to achieve a Zero Liquid Discharge and recycle over 90% of the water used?
The government has prescribed Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) with stringent norms and conditions, and we adhere to all the stated norms. In fact, we achieve better results compared to stipulated norms on several fronts. By implementing a ZLD system, we have been able to significantly reduce the Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) levels to approximately 50, well below the government’s mandated limit. Furthermore, we prioritize water conservation by reusing nearly all of the water utilized during the initial phase of our operations.
In addition, we have strategically placed wet processing technologists throughout our production lines to optimise the effectiveness of our water conservation techniques. Through the implementation of advanced technologies such as spray dryers and multi-effect evaporators, we ensure that the effluents undergo combustion, resulting in the production of salt as a valuable end product. This salt is then reused in our dyeing process.
How does Eastman Exports ensure that its other facilities also contribute to the company’s overall water conservation goals?
In regards to our other facilities, which primarily consist of cut and sew units, water usage is minimal or non-existent in their respective processes. However, to align with our overarching water conservation goals, each of these facilities is equipped with rainwater harvesting systems. By harnessing and utilising rainwater, these units make valuable contributions to our sustainability initiatives.
Could you discuss the importance of modern equipment in minimizing water usage and how Eastman Exports incorporates such equipment into its operations?
Fabric processing is a notably water-intensive operation, and at Eastman Exports, we place great emphasis on minimising water usage within this segment. To illustrate this, traditionally, each fabric would undergo many baths or refills, consuming around 150 litres of water per kilogram of fabric. However, through our concerted efforts, we have managed to significantly reduce this figure to just about 50 litres. We have been working to further cut down water intake in this process. Furthermore, we proactively replace our machinery with more water-efficient alternatives on a regular basis. Additionally, we capitalize on the condensate water from the steam pipelines back into feed water of the boiler, resulting in lesser consumption of fuel.
What other sustainable practices and strategies have Eastman Exports implemented to reduce its environmental footprint beyond water conservation?
One of our key commitments is reducing emissions through science-based targets. For instance, we are actively working towards sourcing approximately 80% of our electrical energy needs from renewable sources. This transition will directly contribute to a significant 44% reduction in our greenhouse gas emissions. As part of our ongoing efforts, in 2022 alone, we replaced 41% of our coal requirements with biomass, further enhancing our sustainability initiatives.
At Eastman Exports, our guiding principle is Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. Over the years, we have diligently worked towards reducing or replacing high-intensity chemicals with greener alternatives through the application of green chemistry. This not only helps minimise our ecological footprint but also provides us with an opportunity for continuous improvement by addressing any potential risks associated with chemicals.
Additionally, we prioritise the thorough testing of our raw materials to identify and eliminate impurities at the primary level itself. This proactive approach ensures that our manufacturing processes are more efficient and sustainable from the outset.
Can you provide some insights into Eastman Exports’ future plans and goals for sustainability and social responsibility?
At Eastman Exports, sustainability forms the core of every process and we have been putting in massive efforts to embrace sustainable textile production and capacities. As already discussed, we want to become a water-positive entity by 2030.
We intend to further reduce the usage of coal-fired power plants and supplement it with biomass to reduce emission rates.
Social responsibility is a fundamental aspect of our corporate ethos. We strongly believe in fostering an inclusive and empowering work environment. To that end, we take pride in the fact that women constitute a substantial 70% of our total workforce, surpassing industry standards. We are committed to their continuous growth and development by providing access to various upskilling and financial courses.
Beyond our internal operations, we actively engage with the larger society through meaningful initiatives. We have established long-term partnerships with NGOs to undertake projects that enhance green cover in Tamil Nadu, positively impacting the local environment. Furthermore, we support a school in a remote village to ensure that children in that area receive quality education. Additionally, we extend scholarship programs for both our employees who aspire to pursue higher education and their children, further promoting access to educational opportunities.
