The recently concluded menswear week in Paris showcased a bold and liberated approach to fashion, with designers embracing plunging necklines, short-shorts, and bare bottoms. From emerging brands like Egonlab to renowned houses like Hermes and Loewe, the focus was on showcasing more skin for a freer male clientele.
The Hermes show on Saturday featured the standout trend of tiny shorts, making a statement that “guys can show skin too,” according to creative director Veronique Nichanian. The backless look, already embraced by celebrities like Timothee Chalamet, also made its mark on several runways. Loewe added a touch of irony by featuring a backless design complemented by a substantial rectangular bag worn as a shield on the front.
However, it was Egonlab, the young label by French duo Florentin Glemarec and Kevin Nompeix, that truly brought the spice to the event. Known for their genderless aesthetic, they presented suit jackets with square necklines revealing the entire chest and ultra-low waist trousers providing a view of the derriere. Glemarec expressed, “There’s a lot of skin this season. Our intention was to liberate ourselves from traditional norms, particularly in the realm of tailoring, and instead embrace a more imaginative and enjoyable approach. Nompeix further expressed their goal of empowering individuals to shed their insecurities about their bodies and move beyond the concealment offered by clothing, instead utilizing apparel as a means to transcend personal limitations.
Dries Van Noten showcased a naked side with transparent fabrics, plunging necklines, and bare feet paired with flip-flops. The Belgian designer described it as “a new form of elegance,” and buyers like Simon Longland from Harrods praised the collection as exceptionally strong.
The debut of Franco-Turkish designer Burc Akyol on the official fashion week calendar also carried a similar vibe. His signature slitted, baggy trousers exposed plenty of hairy legs, while he expressed his belief in existing as a “carnal being” rather than denying the body.
Arturo Obegero from Spain presented bare-chested models or those wearing mid-thigh jumpsuits, envisioning an “evening surfer” on the River Seine with a romantic and seductive silhouette. Other notable mentions of skin-baring fashion came from Bluemarble and Givenchy.
Fashion historian Olivier Gabet from the Louvre noted that this emphasis on nudity aligned with the current discussions around gender fluidity. He acknowledged that young designers no longer compartmentalize their collections, often mixing elements for both men and women. This trend is not only about promoting genderless clothing but also serves as a commercial strategy to appeal to multiple markets simultaneously.
Overall, Paris menswear week displayed a courageous departure from traditional norms, with designers embracing the concept of liberation through showcasing more skin. The unabashed skin-baring designs were not only a fashion statement but also symbols of embracing one’s body and promoting individuality.
