Note from Kate Moss: the reasons for everyone’s summertime bohemian jewelry, ranging from turquoise to lapis lazuli
As soon as editors declared “the return of boho” in their autumn/winter 2024 trend forecasts, fine jewelry enthusiasts began discussing the resurgence of boho jewelry and the semi-precious stones that go with it. Tania Nawbar, co-creative director of Beirut-based company Atelier Nawbar, which works frequently with this type of gem, says, “Boho fashion is all about expressing individuality and a connection to nature, which fits perfectly with the raw, vibrant appeal of hardstones.”
Hardstones are loosely described as semi-precious stones that are resilient, sculptable, and moldable. They are often opaque or transparent, and they frequently have distinctive, organic patterns. According to renowned jeweler Fernando Jorge, “precious colored stones, like sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, are incredibly beautiful, but also extremely valuable, and while they can be worn in the summer, they don’t always capture the carefree feeling of the season.” With a nod to the zodiac, the Brazilian designer’s latest collection, Celestial, extensively employs hardstones to create his distinctive organic and sensuous style. He says, “Hardstones are not as formal and exclusive because they are beautiful and abundant in nature.”
Any modern designer who works with hardstones will mention this carefree, easygoing vibe right away. Founder of Mateo Matthew Harris describes his creations as “unpretentious by nature,” with onyx and malachite set in yellow gold as a stylish tribute to Harris’s Jamaican roots. Retrouvai’s inventor, Kirsty Stone, creates curved shapes with hardstones and contrasts their vibrant colors with faceted gems for a captivating texture and sparkle contrast. Although Stone’s designs are incredibly valuable, the end effect is unmistakably carefree. Although a piece of lapis or turquoise may center a whole ensemble, she says, it’s still carefree and simple for summer wearing.
While some hardstones, like malachite, lapis lazuli, and turquoise, are commonly used to create bohemian jewelry, there are a plethora of unique stone options to choose. Sophie Howard, the founder of By Pariah, says, “I most recently worked with Botswana agate, which drew me in with its incredible banded pattern that makes each piece one-of-a-kind.” By Pariah’s ready-made ring stacks featuring marble, quartz, and jasper have become a cult favorite among lovers of fine jewelry.
Hardstones are another inspiration for Greek designer Lito Karakostanoglou’s most recent collection, La Bouche, which includes a rainbow of vibrant gemstone lips perched on cuffs and draped on delicate chains. “I adore using hardstones because it allows me to create more sculptural shapes. With classic-colored stones, we could not get that appearance; the lips could not appear that realistic,” she says. “Ever since I started my career, I have been drawn to hardstones because I enjoy the rawness and density of the material, as well as their distinct colors, which are not found in traditional colored gems.”
Hardstones are also more useful during the sun, sand, and sea season. Nawbar says, “Compared to faceted jewels, polished hardstones are typically more durable and less prone to scratching.” “They usually have smoother surfaces that won’t snag on clothing, making them more comfortable to wear.” There aren’t many rules to follow when styling hardstones, whether you use them to create a wrist stack that peeks out from a billowing boho cuff or match them with a ton of polished beads to match your swimwear. Nawbar advises, “Pair them with neutral-toned clothing to make their bold colors stand out.” “Make it simple and let the stones take center stage.”
