-By Pratyasha Sarkar
We were welcomed to “L’Oasi di Lino,” the “Lightness of being and behaving,” by ZEGNA Spring/Summer 2024. For SS24, this culminated with a presentation focused on linen, so much so that the location — Piazza San Fedele in Milan — was surrounded by 192 bales of raw linen. This was the result of the company’s Creative Director Alessandro Sartori’s ongoing search for innovative ways to make things with an emphasis on authenticity and originality.
These bales won’t only be utilised as a prop; they’ll be moved from the production back to the factory and used to make Oasi Lino items, representing ZEGNA’s circular ideals. Circular it was in fact, with look after look being displayed on the presentation that complemented, carried on from, and echoed one another as a large ZEGNA uniform.
The tailored outfits had an effortless, unrestrictive, and elegant feel to them. ZEGNA’s wardrobe was one for all occasions, using soft natural colours; round-neck tops replaced jackets, bombers transitioned into shirts, and sack jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves once more offered an air of casual quiet luxury.
It achieved this through the use of a variety of fabrics, including jute oxford, washi paper, raffia, silk pipeline, seta tussa, recycled wool granitè, double-faced wool, tela vela, mohair poplin, line and bourette and silk canvas, hammered nabuk and bonded calf leather. The collection was rich, substantial and monochromatic in appearance.
And yet, despite all of this complexities, it was still airy and summerlike. The House produced seamlessly perfect summer clothing, thanks to ZEGNA’s excellent talent in this area.
