Tom Ford has not wasted much time. Less than two months after announcing the retirement of its creative director, Peter Hawkings, the US label has appointed Haider Ackermann as his replacement, a designer who defies description and is well-known for his ability to shape cuts and constructions.
“In his new role, Haider Ackermann will assume creative leadership across all Tom Ford fashion categories, including menswear, womenswear, accessories, and eyewear, and will guide the creative vision for the overall brand,” Tom Ford stated in a press release. The fashion business is now managed by Italian luxury group Ermenegildo Zegna.
The designer chosen to write Tom Ford’s next chapter is a well-known name with an impressive resume, a regular at major fashion weeks. Ackermann has previously founded and maintained his own brand, as well as collaborated with numerous other labels. The purpose is also to transform Tom Ford. Ackermann, a Frenchman of Colombian descent who enjoys drawing influence from various cultures, will have to achieve the proper balance between Tom Ford’s sexy-chic design and his own more sensual style. He will debut his first collection with a show in Paris in March 2025.
Tom Ford was established in 2005 by the eponymous Texan designer. It was sold for $2.3 billion at the end of 2022 to Estée Lauder, the US cosmetics powerhouse that has licensed Tom Ford cosmetics since 2006. Zegna runs Tom Ford’s apparel business, but Marcolin has licensed the label’s eyewear ranges.
Meanwhile, creator Tom Ford heaped Ackermann with praise. “I’ve long been a big fan of Haider’s work. I find both his menswear and womenswear to be equally appealing. He is a fantastic colorist, his tailoring is precise, and most importantly, he is current. We share many historical references, and I am very curious to watch what he does with the brand. I suspect I’ll be the first to stand up and applaud after his March show,” added Ford, who will retire in 2022.
The appointment signals Ackermann’s return to the international fashion scene. He is well-known for his tailoring skills and draping volumes, and he served as Berluti’s design director from 2016 till 2018. Due to the epidemic, he was forced to stop his own ready-to-wear company, which he founded in 2003. The Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts graduate has since collaborated with Maison Ullens, Fila, and Jean Paul Gaultier. In May, he was named the creative director of Canadian parka specialist Canada Goose.
