-By Pratyasha Sarkar
Perhaps the most eagerly anticipated event of Milan Fashion Week is Jonathan Anderson and his namesake company, JW Anderson. The well-known designer, who also oversees LOEWE, consistently comes up with fresh approaches to push the envelope and surprise us with an unexpected turn of events. Men’s and women’s Resort 2024 co-ed for Spring/Summer 2024 was no different, as you could have guessed at this point.
Anderson stated during the previous season that “we shouldn’t be scared of subversion.” In order to achieve this, he looked into “a very raw state of mind,” and it appears that the designer has maintained this philosophy for SS24, as well as consistently with his unconventional collections for LOEWE.
In this collection, the designer opened with cuboid-shaped shorts with an asymmetrical cutout that exposed silk-covered clogs. House mainstays, like as the Bumper silhouette, were reimagined as thick wool dresses and tank tops, and pillowy proportions appeared on dolly dresses, similar to his own designs for the aforementioned big-brand House.
The complexity concealed inside the seeming simplicity of it all, however, was what really resonated with the audience, as the leather automobile coats looked more like leather sleeves to protect the body and were immobile.
This collection’s debut item was a pair of cuboid-shaped shorts with an asymmetrical cutout that revealed clogs coated in silk. House staples like the Bumper silhouette were reinterpreted as thick wool dresses and tank tops, while pillowy proportions showed up on dolly dresses, similar to his own designs for the aforementioned big-brand House.
The audience, however, was genuinely moved by the complexity that was disguised behind the appearance of simplicity, since the leather automobile jackets appeared more like immobile leather sleeves that were worn to protect the body.
Although the collection did develop into some more daring pieces, such as sweaters with front fringes and others made from knitting thread balls, or avant-garde apron dresses and sweaters with three-dimensional textures, it still seems extremely comfortable. And that is not at all straightforward.
Anderson prioritised sticking to his strengths and improved upon them even further than before. Dresses with hidden pockets and wool two-pieces that looked like pajamas brought back memories of previous collections by LOEWE.
