By Akansha Kamath
Gender roles are realigning across the human experience spectrum, especially so in fashion. Now more than ever, the bifurcation between men and women in society is being questioned, with the claim that no hardline rules must be adhered to any longer.
Not long ago, Pharell Williams, the menswear creative director of Louis Vuitton, made a striking entrance at his inaugural show wearing a pair of almond-shaped sunglasses encrusted with natural diamond. He once astutely remarked, “Jewellery is the punctuation mark of a person.” His punctuation was 20 carats of baguette diamonds lining the lenses of his sunglasses that he designed himself in collaboration with Tiffany & Co. last fall as a one of one piece.
Traditionally associated with femininity and romance, natural diamonds are transcending boundaries to become a powerful symbol of self-expression and inclusivity in contemporary jewellery. However, as societal perceptions of gender evolve, so too does the role of natural diamonds in jewellery.
Men have worn diamonds for an eternity. We only have to look to our ancient scriptures and illustrations of Maharajas. The now-infamous Patiala necklace that Emma Chamberlain wore to the Gilded Glamour-themed Met Gala in 2022 belonged to the late Maharaja of Patiala’s personal collection. The Maharaja had the 234.65 carat yellow diamond, the “De Beers” as it was called, turned into a choker as a personal heirloom. It was common for men at the time to be deeply invested in the upkeep and care of their jewellery. The ‘vanity’ of acquiring pieces that lined their archives was revered and emulated. The ‘De Beers’ later went missing and was ultimately acquired by Cartier through a Sotheby’s auction.
Even in the French aristocracy there are stories of the dedication and attention diamonds commanded. The ‘Sun King’ Louis XIV of France had a great love for the steely blue 67 1/8-carat stone that came to be known as the ‘Hope Diamond.’ The diamond was set in gold and worn by the king for ceremonial occasions on a neck ribbon. King Louis XIV later had the natural diamond set into a chain by his court jeweller. The diamond made its way through many owners over the years, considering its singular colour and history.
Men wearing diamonds for self-expression is a reconnection with our roots. “Men are now embracing diamonds in various forms, appreciating their elegance and sophistication,” says Jinesh Mehta of Kaamya Jewels. According to the designer and owner, men are opting for a range of pieces, including diamond brooches, cufflinks, dress buttons, and even necklaces. “This shift certainly highlights a broader acceptance of gender-neutral fashion and a desire for men to express their style in more diverse and luxurious ways.”
Mainstream media and celebrities play an important role in disseminating the democratisation of diamond jewellery between the sexes. “Recently, we’ve noticed several international celebrities at prestigious events like the MET Gala and Cannes Film Festival rocking brooches and other diamond accessories. This visibility is helping to normalise and popularise diamond jewellery for men on a global scale,” says Mehta.
Closer to home, Bollywood actor Ranveer Singh, has always remained incredibly fluid with his interpretation of fashion and dress. He revealed in an interview that he had stolen a pair of natural diamond earrings from his mother’s personal collection many years ago. He is continually spotted wearing them, even in his recent blockbuster film ‘Rocky Aur Rani Kii Prem Kahani.’ Beyond the solitaires, Ranveer is a continual forerunner in including diamonds in his fashion choices. At a recent store opening for Tiffany & Co. he sported two diamond brooches on his lapel.
A common thread in men incorporating diamonds efficiently into their accessorising game is to go about it authentically. It makes an impact when it remains personal to the wearer’s manner of dressing. It can be the difference between what is gauche and elegant.
For instance, Dune actor Timothée Chalamet’s fashion choices remain especially personal. He is famously known to not rely on a stylist but plans his looks himself. He has manoeuvred many a red carpet wearing natural diamonds with his trademark flourish. He was seen wearing three natural diamond brooches on his Haider Ackerman sweatpants at a past Met Gala. He also wore a Louis Vuitton blazer forgoing a shirt for a sprinkling of diamonds as a choker at the 94th Academy Awards.
When authenticity demands so much space within men’s wardrobes it is hard to imagine that society ever deemed diamonds a woman’s prerogative only.
