-By Pratyasha Sarkar
A number of design firms, including Etro, won the day on Sunday, the third day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, which was dominated by the Prada show. Etro’s collection was both opulent and modern, managing to stray from the iconic Paisley motif.
With jumpsuits and pyjama sets in printed silk or white cotton embroidered with folkloric flowers, long loose-fitting pants, fine knitwear, not to mention suits and coats with tapestry motifs from the archives of the weavers who have worked with the label for years and whom the designer visited this season, Marco De Vincenzo’s second men’s collection for Etro deftly fuses the label’s rich heritage with a relaxed, youthful wardrobe.
There is a sense of freshness throughout. Models frequently appear bare-chested or in tank tops, wear dark glasses, and wear beach necklaces in the majority of the looks, which convey lightness and a certain nonchalance. “Everything moves smoothly across the body and is quite fluid. There are no obstacles or building of any kind. There are volumes, of course, but everything is unstructured, the designer backstage affirmed as she unveiled impenetrable graphic knits and further lightened certain outfits made of pricey fabrics by doing away with the sleeves on the jackets.
The long, dim showroom was lit by a huge yellow sun. The murky surroundings were perfect for reflecting the sparkling reflections of shirts made of glittering threads and silks. Alternatively, the collar of a patterned coat or jacket may include metallic studs. The geometric motifs, repeated patterns, colours, and textures fascinated optical effects enthusiast Marco De Vincenzo.
For instance, some sweaters appear to be composed of terry cloth. Cardigans resemble knitted holiday decorations. Woollen vests that have been ruffled have the impression of a looped rug. The motif of blankets, which was established last season, has also been adopted by the designer and turned into clothing. The plaid transforms into a cloak, poncho, or cape, he claims, kind of like a gesture. These heavy, tassel-edged jacquard blankets are draped over the models’ shoulders, giving them a regal air.
Marco De Vincenzo also wished to concentrate on the idea of image for the spring/summer of 2024. The designer had the idea to draw from historical allegories, drawing inspiration from a 17th-century grimoire called L’Iconologia by Cesare Ripa, a copy of which he discovered in an old bookshop in Messina, Sicily, in order to echo the images that currently overtake us through the constant flow of social networks. The allegories of passion, perched on a crocodile, auspiciousness, clutching a goose, or even tenacity, encircled in ivy, are all displayed on maxi T-shirts, short-sleeve shirts, or flesh-toned second-skin tops, further enhancing Etro’s iconographic cosmos.
