Dr. N. N. Mahapatra
B.Sc ( Hons) B.Sc (Tech )(Bom)M.Sc ( Chem ),Ph.D ( Chem ),M.B.A( IMM,Cal)C.Col FSDC ( UK), CText FTI ( Manchester ), FRSC ( UK )Int Trg ( Australia)),Sen Mem AATCC (USA),FAIC(USA) FIC ,FTA , FICS,FIE,FIIChE ,MISTE ( INDIA)
Business Head ( Dyes )
Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd ,
301/302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Center, Sonawala Road,
Goregaon (East) Mumbai MH 400063.
From textiles to handicrafts, Odisha has always been in the limelight for its fabulous Execution and delicate finish. Amidst all the glories, the state’s sarees are indeed the ‘Threads of elegance’ that are known and appreciated worldwide. Some of them are Even treasured proudly and are also handed down to different generations for keeping the saree tradition intact! Saree is the traditional outfit of Indian women. This outfit is probably the oldest attire ever invented in India and to date proclaims to be the most beautiful yet comfortable; most enchanting yet well-ordered outfit.
Here’s some of the different sarees from Odisha which can never go out of fashion!
1. Bomkai Saree/Sonepuri Saree From Ganjam
Bomkai cotton sarees are mostly accepted for habitual wear and the silk saree is put on ceremonies and sacred occasions. The ancient belief is depicted in its border. Mostly the design of fish is seen in the saree as it is believed to be a sign of success and affluence. The most charming part is its thread work in the designs of the border and the palloo. The appearance of the saree is related to simplicity and has a tribal tinge in it. The saree is normally dyed to attain the red, black and white background colours. However, today you will find the saree in several designs and multiple colours while retaining their originality. The warps are suitably woven to produce multi-coloured end piece.
2. Ikat Saree/Bandha Saree From Sonepur
It is made through a process of tie-dying the warp and weft threads to create the design on the loom prior to weaving. It is unlike any other Ikat woven in the rest of the country because of its design process, which has been called “poetry on the loom”.
The designs developed on the Ikat sarees are generally of birds, various animals, rudraksh beads, geometric designs, dice, temple towers, and pinnacles. The silk fabric made at Nuapatna in the Cuttack district is woven with Ikat yarn as hymns from the Gitagovinda, and this fabric adorns the idols at the Jagannath Temple daily. The Ikat produced by Bhullas from Western Odisha is considered superior in both the use of the fabric and pattern (which include double Ikat) compared to the product from Eastern Odisha. In the Western Odisha, it is woven in Barapalli, Remunda, Jhiliminda, Mahalakata, Singhapali, Sonepur, Patabhadi,Sagarpali, Tarabha, Biramaharajpur, Subalaya, Kendupali, Jaganathpali, and Kamalapur of Bargarh district and Sonepur district. In the Cuttack district it is made in the villages of Badamba, Nuapatna, Maniabadha, Narashinpur, Tigiria.
3. Kotpad Saree From Koraput
These are cotton sarees with solid borders and are dyed organically that renders a kind of richness to the cloth. While the process of making them is quite time consuming, the final product is hard to ignore. Having pleasant shades and being eco-friendly are two other reasons for owning this saree at the earliest!
4. Dhalapathar Saree From Dhalapathar
Dhalapathar sarees are woven in the Dhalapathar in Khurda district of Orissa. These are woven by Rangani community in the village. These are also known as Kusumi Kapta, Kankana Pedi, Muktapunji, Nahati and Akata.The speciality of the practice is wet ribbed cloth that is woven without the use of dobby, jacquard or jaala.
5. Saptapar Saree/Pasappali Saree From Bargarh
These sarees have intricate check patterns of contrast colours resembling the chess boards which gives it such name. This Saree is woven at Sonepur, Barpali and Baunsri of Western Odisha. The speciality of the Pasapalli or Saptapar Saree is the designs like Chess Board’s boxes on the Body or Border. Normally this saree is woven with Silk thread, Cotton thread, Tussar, Mix of Silk & Tussar. Pallu of Some Pasapalli or Saptapar Saree is made with golden colour threads. The Border of the Sarees is made beautifully.
6. Khandua Saree From Nuapatna
Manufactured in Nuapatna in Cuttack district, has rightly been called the Pride of Odisha. The origin of this Saree, which is dedicated to Lord Jagannath of Puri Dham, a sacred Hindu pilgrimage, dates back to 12th century. Khandua Saree is a classic example of hand weaving, in which traditional wooden looms are used to weave these exquisite and artistic pieces, out of pure Cotton yarn. Another excellent feature of Khandua Saree is its light weight; barely 300 g. Khandua Saree has become a symbol of the unique blend of tradition and modernity, which makes it perfect for the modern age.
7. Habaspuri From Kalahandi
Habaspuri handloom is named after the village of Habaspur in Kalahandi district.
The Habaspuri sarees are finely hand-woven in Chicheguda village of Odisha. The painstaking efforts and creativity of Chicheguda weavers make every Habaspuri saree produced here a special piece. Traditional designs of Kandha tribes like Kumbha (temple), fish and flowers are woven into the sarees. Chicheguda village has been instrumental in reviving the Habaspuri handloom which was originally woven in Habaspur village of Kalahandi district during the 19th century. With the decline of dynasty rule, the pattern of weave too passed into oblivion. However, it was revived by master weaver Ugrasen Meher in Chicheguda. Now there are very few weavers left in that village.
8. NABAKOTHI SAREES –
Nabakothi sarees are known as Nabarangi or Nabakothi as they depict the nine houses or kothi or kothiri with 9 auspicious motifs placed in a linear way on the body…. like pot, bird, lion, lotus, deer, butterfly, peacock, and flower. The motifs on the saree are designed using tie and dye techniques.
A rare to find and unique tradition of Odisha, the Nabakothi Khandua silk saree, is a significant representation of Odisha’s religious beliefs and legitimacy. Nabakothi saree symbolizes auspicious number 9. The number 9 is considered a powerful number connected with Navarasa, Navami, Navaratri, Nabagraha, and the nine incarnations of human life.
This authentic piece has nine unique motifs in the Kothi or houses placed horizontally across the body. The checkered homes contain nine different motifs, each in an aligned liner pattern. Motifs of the saree include pot, bird, lion, chessboard, lotus, butterfly, deer, peacock, and flower. It is extemerely rare to find off white body and orange motif Nabakothi. The embrace the orange border completes the whole look of the saree. Palla of the six yards contains flowy flower motifs all over it.
The traditional touch of the motifs and the color embraces the culture, making it the best choice for any puja, functions, and other events.
The Nabakothi Khandua Silk Saree is woven and designed by National Awardee from Nuapatna.
Nabakothi Khandua Silk saree – “Naba” means “nine” and “Kothi” means “house”. This Odisha handloom ikat silk saree has nine boxes or houses vertically in the body, depicting different motifs in each box. This saree is considered very auspicious as it is associated with number “9”. Pallu has intricate ikat weaving. Saree is completely hand weaved with no blouse.
Fabric: 3ply Mulberry Silk
Product Specifications: Length 5.50mtr X Width 1.14mtr
Special Instructions: Dry clean only
9. PATTACHITRA SAREES;
A canvas for epic tales exhibiting rich colours, extraordinary narration and lucid painting; is how one can describe Pattachitra saree. Pattachitra sarees has its origin in Odisha and they are loved for their exemplary designs and motifs. This art form is known for its intricate details as well as mythological narratives and folktales inscribed in it. Pattachitras are a component of an ancient Bengali narrative and folktales inscribed in it, originally serving as a visual device during the performance of a song. Derived from the Sanskrit words, ‘Patta’ meaning cloth and ‘chitra’ meaning painting, this literally means painting on cloth. The tradition of Pattachitra paintings are more than thousand years old. Authentic Pattachitra sarees at Luxurion World are designed masterpieces that are exclusive and unique. The colours, the depiction and the paintings are all superlative in every perspective. Go for the heirloom factor it provides in addition to embracing an art of eternity.
I have been hunting for a Odisha Pattachitra saree of my choice since long. Pattachitra is a form of painting which is popular in Odisha and West Bengal. The painting styles are different in the two states. When this painting is done on scroll like cloth it is called Pattachitra. When it is done on walls like murals it is called Bhitti Chitra.
The colours used are derived from natural elements. For example, white is derived from conch shells, black from lamp black, vermilion from cinnabar, brick red from geru or red ochre, and yellow from hartala. The artist hand paints the entire sequence directly without initially sketching. Entire families get together to fill in the small details in the painting.
The chitrakaars, as the artists are called in Odisha, derive the themes from Vaishnava tradition or the mythology of Lord Jagannath. The popular themes are Radha-Krishna, Dashavatar, Ramayana, Mahabharata etc. But Krishna episodes are very popular.
My saree has the vastraharan scene hand painted on it. Here Krishna has stolen the garments of the bathing gopis and has climbed up a tree. The gopis look embarrassed with their nudity. But the love in their eyes for Krishna makes them forget their condition. Everytime I see the intricate painting I’m enamoured by a little detail that I previously missed. The way the garments are folded and hung on the tree, the little birds flying across, the tassels at the edge of the garments, the colourful pots floating in the river, the peacock feathers painted at the edge of the saree and so many beautiful details. It was another trapeze act to stand on a chair and try to photograph the entire Pattachitra in one frame. But it was really worth buying this saree. Zoom in and tell me which details you spotted.
PATTACHITRA HANDPAINTED SILK
Patta-chitra means painting on cloth/patta. It has flourished in Odisha since earlier than 15th century. Earth, stone, and mineral colours are used for painting on patta or specialised canvas medium prepared organically for painting such as: vermillion red- hingula (cinnabar); brick red- geru (red ochre); yellow- hartala (orpiment); white- sankh (conch shell); black- lamp black; gum resin- kaintha plant etc.
Patachitra or Pattachitra has its origin in Orissa, India. ‘Pata’ is cloth and ‘chitra’ means picture or painting in Sanskrit. Hence Pattachitra would come to mean painting on a cloth or canvas.
An old art form, it displays epics and religious themes in detailed narration on any broad canvas. The Indian saree with its ample spread offered sufficient scope for this painstakingly executed, unique ethnic offering that ‘wowed’ even the contemporary audience of today.
A traditional art dating from historical to ancient times, this Odisha craft of painting on any form of canvas has themes from Hindu mythology inspired especially by the Jagannatha and Vaishnava cult.
Rich in color, with extraordinary designs and motifs, the Pattachitra painting on the saree involves the narration of epic Indian stories in a simple and lucid manner.
Murals of religious venues centered around Puri Konark and Bhubaneshwar, themes from Gita Govinda by Jaydev, stories about Lord Jagannatha and the Radha Krishna saga, scenes from the epics Mahabharata and Ramayana, are all popular subjects for Pattachitra.
Individual gods and goddesses, folk tales and classical elements also figure now and then as themes for these sarees.
The Patachitra painted sarees that are available at Unnati Silks, as a style within its designer range, have certain marked features.
Lines are bold, very clean, angular and quite sharp. There is an absence of landscapes, perspectives, or intended views. The backdrop would have flowers and other floral representations to distinguish the figures that are drawn or represented in the foreground. There are decorative borders and a theme designed in the form of a narrative becomes evident.
Unnati creations do not dilute traditional style in a weave. There is only additional adornment incorporated to market tastes that comes off beautifully. This confidence comes from close association and working with master weavers and craftsmen of different traditional styles across India since three decades.
There was a time when women used to prepare the materials, provide the initial background colours on the canvas and also give the final coating touches on these paintings while the men or ‘chitrakars’ as they were called, painted the main themes on them. Today painting on these sarees follows more or less the same pattern but with tasks interspersed and more divided.
It was and still is a family tradition where all members of a family are involved.
The area where the painting has to be made is prepared by coating a mixture of chalk and a special kind of gum. This gives a leathery finish to the surface on which the painting with vegetable and earth colours are done. Lines are drawn direct without any hint of tracing and then colours are filled in. This is then given some form of coating to provide the gloss.
Organic colours used in the Patachitra saree are primarily bright and with red, yellow, indigo, black and white given prominence. Application of colour is through the use of animal hairs reared domestically, bunched together and tied to a bamboo stick. It is indeed a marvel that despite the crudity of the tool, the outcome is so detailed.
Despite the time consumed and the effort being tremendous the devotion and dedication of these ethnic craftsmen remains intact even today. Small wonder then if the exquisite and flawless Patachitra creations enjoy the attention of an appreciative market.
Patachitra or painting on cloth, is amongst the most distinctive forms of traditional painting in Orissa. The word is derived from the Sanskrit word Patta meaning ‘canvas’ and ‘chitra’ meaning picture. The iconic paintings , a domain of the chitrakar community of painters, depict religious themes – stories from the Ramayana , Mahabharta, Krishna Lila incarnations of Lord Vishnu . But the most important depiction is that of Lord Jagannath. The pattachitra has its roots in the schematic paintings of the Jagannath temple that were made as the souvenirs for the pilgrims. The paintings are colourful and characterized by creative motifs and details of human figures, jewellery and costumes. The canvas is skilfully made. Cloth is bonded with gum made from powdered tamarinds seeds, dried in the sun and burnished on both sides with a coarse stone and subsequently with a smooth pebble. The colours used in paintings are extracted from rocks and sea shells. Patachitras have two kinds of borders – floral and geometric. The common motifs painted on these borders are called dahaniya macchi, kangura, lahara macchi, goolai, sapa and chauk The patachitras have an important role in the rituals of the temple at Puri . They are temporarily installed in place of the deities during the few times the idols are taken out of the temple for the processions.
“These exclusive handlooms are dying because of lack of awareness, or may be because of less supply. One Patachitra saree takes 2 months time, now a days hardly 25% of Indian women are aware of the handloom sarees and varieties of handloom sarees available in India. Few designers have started working in handloom and hence it has become a trend. There are few Indian women who still think handloom is designer wear and hence they are expensive. Nobody gives due respect to the craft or the craftman. Sutra is trying to focus of Handloom products from various part of the country not only from one region. So if you see the Dhakai’s from Bengal, you will also find Muga silks from Assam and Pattachitra from Orissa. You will also get the flavour of Shibori from Rajasthan and Ajrakh from Gujarat. ” Anindita.
10. BAPTA SAREES
The weaving with cotton and silk amalgamation is known as Bapta. Bapta saris are improvised with the use of gold coloured yarns or threads to enhance its elegance. Bapta is basically a design of the famous Sambalpuri sari. The originality of the saris is its `Baandha` or `Ikat`.Bapta is an Indian term for rough handloom fabric made from very thick cotton yarns along with silk yarn…The weaving with cotton and silk amalgamation is known as Bapta. Bapta cotton mainly used for famous Odisha handloom. Bapta is basically design of famous Sambalpuri saree.
A combination of Silk and Cotton. Beautiful colour combinations with bomkai embroidery all over and traditional ikat designs with temple border.
Bapta saris are improvised with the use of gold coloured yarns or threads to enhance its elegance.
Bapta Tussar is a perfect blend of cotton and tussar silk; The saree looks very elegant and graceful. Pallu is kept unstitched so that you can leave it loose or pin it up as per your choice. You can iron or dry clean the ready to wear saree similar to a lehenga or any stitched garment.
Bapta means two different threads are woven in the warp and weft – silk and cotton. It is a different texture of saree with simplicity in design. Elegance and simplicity – what more can one ask for?!
A traditional handwoven silk cotton saree woven by the weavers of Odisha. Orange cotton and silk yarns used to weave this saree. It has stripe and temple motifs woven on the body and butti designs on the border of the saree with dobby rudraksha motifs. And stripe pattern sapta design is woven on pallu.
Patta Bapta Saree in a beautiful and subtle neutral colour with Ganga-Jamuna Phoda kumbha borders in Blue and Dark Red woven on a 3-shuttle loom and Sambalpuri Ikat aanchal with traditional arrow, fish and flower motifs from our ‘Bapta Revival Project’.
Material: Mulberry Silk and Cotton
Length: 5.5m + 0.70m blouse in Stripes
Care: Dry clean only. Avoid any contact of water and direct sunlight. Keep it away from moisture.
Bapta sarees as they fear lack of demand. “Making one Bapta saree takes a minimum 15 days and there is a lot of hard work involved as the tie and dye method is used and three shuttle weaving is done. This means that two persons are involved in the weaving process,
Locally known as ‘Phoda Kumbha’, in this technique, thread is used for embroidery. One thread from the border is used to give an impression of cut as the edges of the temple designs made.
The Bapta sarees you find elsewhere are all diluted. Barely any traditional authentic ones can be found.
Chanderi, found in Madhya Pradesh is very close to Bapta but is different in its texture as it is more transparent.
Bapta is an Indian term for rough handloom fabric made from very thick cotton yarns along with silk yarn. `Bapta` is one such sari which has its name from the fabric. The weaving with cotton and silk amalgamation is known as Bapta.
Bapta cotton mainly used for famous Odisha handloom. Bapta is basically design of famous Sambalpuri saree.
Bapta Product
Saree is the most important product of Bapta. it is also used as the base material for stitched apparel like kurti, duapatta, salwar, stoles etc.
Also used for handicrafts, furnishing fabrics.
Wash Care:
- It should be washed with care in mild detergent.
- Any attire made from Bapta should be kept away from direct sunlight which can prevent color fading.
- Do not bleach.
- Iron on reverse
11. SAURA SAREES
Sauras are among the most ancient of tribes in India and find mention in the Hindu epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata. Saura tribal painting is a style of wall mural paintings associated with the Saura tribals of the state of Odisha in India. These paintings, also called ikons (or ekons) are visually similar to Warli paintings and hold religious significance for the Sauras. Soura painting handloom sarees is designed with ikons like People, horses, elephants, the sun and the moon and tree on pure silk fabric. Tribal paintings of Odisha is known as “Saura Tribal painting”. Saura paintings are an integral part of the religious ceremonies of the Saura tribals and are found in the southern Odisha. These paintings, are visually similar to Warli paintings.
The Saura art form practiced by the tribal clans of Odisha is a real treat for any art lover. Opt for this painting on Tassar Silk to appreciate not only the art form but also the nature as the painting includes instances from everyday human/tribal existence. Enliven either a main wall or an empty corner with this beautiful painting to envy the neighbours.
The Sora (alternative names and spellings include Saora, Saura, Savara and Sabara) are a Munda ethnic group from Southern Odisha in India. Sauras are amongst the most ancient of tribes in India and have a fine mention in the mythology like that of Ramayana and Mahabharata. Savari, Rama’s devotee in the Ramayana and Jara, the hunter who mortally wounded Krishna with an arrow, are thought to have been members of this tribe. Jara’s body is believed to have flowed into the sea near Puri as a wooden log and the idol Jagannath at Puri is believed to have been sculpted from it. Saura paintings are an integral part of the religious ceremonies of the Saura tribals and are found in the southern Odisha districts of Rayagada, Ganjam, Gajapati and Koraput.
Intricate patterns depicting daily chores of saura tribe, beautifully woven by the weavers of the same tribe to carry on the legacy of the famous saura paintings and convert it into more and more contemporary versions, keeping up the traditions alive.
12. Bandhkala or Vichitrapuri Saree
Bandhakala (also known as Baandha) is a complex tied-dyed weave art which originated in Odisha, India. Popularly in Odisha, the Bandhakala sari is known as Vichitrapuri or Bichitrapuri sari.
The beauty lies in the main body of the sari which is an interwoven weft of the gold and silk threads creating a rich fabric. The weavers create basic geometric patterns that look amazing. The borders are painted with the various geometric patterns creating popular shankha (conch shell) and chakra (wheel) designs.
The Ikat dyeing technique involved in making the Vichitrapuri sari is the same as that of the Sambhalpuri sari. The Vichitrapuri variety mostly comes with a fish border. This sari generally comes in 6 to 8 colors. The body of this sari is woven in the Pasapalli style (a style of sari from Odisha) giving the fabric an eternally rich look.
Inspired by the game of dice during the time of the Mahabharata, Vichitrapuri saris are hand-woven in silk threads and have replicas of a chess board arranged in geometric patterns. Made from an exclusive handloom fabric called “pata”, Vichitrapuri saris are an essential part of a wedding trousseau in Odisha.
Bandhkala (also known as Baandha) is a complex tied-dyed weave art which originated in Odisha, India. Popularly the Bandhkala saree is known as Vichitrapuri or Bichitrapuri saree in the lands of Odisha. Traditionally it is available in nine exotic colors but, you can always customize the color of as per your wish. These sarees are mostly made from Cotton.
Origin and History
Traditionally, the sarees of Odisha were available in four basic colors that are found on Lord Jaganath. The origin of the Vichitrapuri sarees does not have a mention in the history as such. But, the Bandhkala originated somewhere in the early years of 19th Century. The origin and popularity of Bandhkala led to the weaving of Vichitrapuri sarees which has a lot of Bandhkala involved.
Sources of Inspiration
The embroidery along the fabrics leads one to believe that the main source of inspiration as far as colors and patterns are concerned is the main lord of Puri, Lord Jagannatha. The beauty lies in the main body of the saree which is an interwoven weft of Gold and Silk threads creating fabric richness. The weavers create basic geometric patterns that figuratively look amazing when the saree is created and sold. The borders are painted with the various geometric patterns involved in creating shankha, and chakra designs.
Varieties
The Ikat dyeing technique involved in making the Vichitrapuri sarees is same as that for the sambhalpuri variety. Most sarees of the Vichitrapuri variety come with a fish border. This saree generally comes in 6-8 colors. The body of this saree is woven in the pasapalli style giving the fabric an eternally rich and contending look.
Interesting Facts and Comparisons
- Both sambhalpuri and vichitrapuri sarees have similar ikat dyeing but, they both are different in their patterns and pallus.
- Traditionally these sarees were available only in Black and Maroon.
13. Vijayapar saree
This saree is sold as a Sachipar on most websites. But the truth is that not every saree with checks is a Sachipar. A Sachipar essentially is a saree with checks with a border in a contrast colour. Just two colours all along.
Yes, this double ikat yellow cotton saree has small checks as well as a black contrast border. But it also has a red band inside the contrast border. That is called the lahari bandha and changes the nomenclature of this saree. The correct name should be a Vijayapar or Bijayapar. The size of the checks can be variable.
If you look closely the pallu has bands of fish (machha) and dobby flower woven alternating with bands of creeper (dala) motifs. The border on the other hand has rudraksha motifs at the edges, while the black band has swans woven on it. The red lahari bandha has tendril like motifs again.
Odisha is a land of many delightful treasures but our favourite amongst them is the gorgeous range of hand-woven fabrics produced here. The appeal of these fabrics is so magnificent that a lot of India’s most famous celebrities can be spotted every now & then sporting the finest of these Odishan handlooms, sometimes even giving them a stylish spin of their own.
