Milan Fashion Week witnessed Prada’s latest menswear offering, a collection that weaves together raw textures, cinematic influences, and subtle floral touches, presenting a powerful statement in challenging times. The design duo, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons crafted a narrative of “raw and cinematic” style, exploring the essence of humanity as a form of resistance.
The collection boldly played with textures. Shearling took centre stage, not in its polished form, but with a primal edge. Pieces appeared almost torn and patched, lending a sense of primitive detailing to outerwear and garments. This raw aesthetic was juxtaposed with a sense of warmth and domesticity, creating a compelling contrast.
Cinematic inspirations were woven throughout, evoking a general mood rather than specific films or characters. Western elements, such as worn cowboy boots and knitwear reminiscent of wrangler shirts, were subtly incorporated, avoiding caricature. These rugged touches were softened by unexpected feminine details. Men’s accessories included delicate jewellery, like bracelets adorned with miniature sports balls and amulet-bearing chains on fine knits. Floral prints even appeared on faux fur-lined hoods, adding a touch of unexpected delicacy.
Silhouettes played with contrasts in volume. Slim trousers, often in vibrant satin hues, were paired with more relaxed pieces like pyjama-inspired tops and slightly distressed sweaters. A key styling choice: suits worn without shirts, promoting a sense of instinctive dressing. One particularly striking look featured straight-leg jeans, a striped knit top, and floral cowboy boots, encapsulating the collection’s boyish charm.
The designers emphasized that this collection aimed to offer hope amidst current global challenges. They presented humanity, instinct, passion, and even romance, as powerful forms of resistance. The creative process itself, they suggested, is an act of defiance and optimism.
The show’s setting within the Prada Foundation’s Deposito space further amplified the collection’s themes. Art Nouveau carpets clashed artfully with the industrial feel of raised metal scaffolding, symbolizing the interplay of contrasting elements and the ongoing nature of creation.
Key trends emerging from the runway include the shirtless suit, layered puffers, the raw shearling collar, subtle men’s jewellery, floral accents, and the ever-present cowboy boot. The front row was a star-studded affair, drawing notable figures from film, music, sports, and beyond, highlighting the collection’s broad appeal.
