Hope, as they say, “springs eternally.” When Joe Biden withdrew from consideration to be the Democratic Party’s presidential nominee, Prabal Gurung saw hope spring up into the ticket that was both infectious and intensely personal. For a number of years, Gurung has been the stylist for Kamala Harris, the party’s new vice presidential nominee. In addition, it appeared that the hope had revitalized the fashion industry since the designer, who had previously produced some erratic collections in the post-pandemic seasons, found success with a collection that was refined and elegant while adhering to his East-West aesthetic.
The setting was also influenced by hope and dreams, a common motto among the designer, who is originally from Nepal and whose tale embodies the American Dream. The Archway, a 1914 outdoor architectural spectacular with references to Roman Imperial, Italian and French Renaissance, and Beaux Arts influence, is located at 1 Center Street on Lower Manhattan.
On top of the enormous cobblestone-arched, passage-covered plaza, Gurung created a T-shaped runway. Located at its highest point, an orchestra played music for the models, who were nearly all wearing trains as part of their ensembles. The trains, which looked particularly good on chiffons, blew in the wind, which may have been caused by the archway’s tunnel effect or it could have been a coincidence. Whatever the reason, it was a beautiful sight.
Gurung effectively eliminated fuss this season with tailoring that was dotted with sheer, breezy, and coquettish designs. The method demonstrated Gurung’s flair for pizzazz and gave the collection sharpness and constraint. Additionally, there seemed to be more clothing being produced overall, particularly in certain sleek knits.
Instead of the models, which featured Jessica Stam, taking a last stroll as the last look came to an end, a large group of them emerged rapidly in a variety of white and cream cotton sundresses and stood at the end of the runway.9
Concurrently, they hurled pink powder dye, which is used in color ceremonies, with deftness concealed in their hands; two Indian drummers emerged, producing a lively noise, and accompanied the models as they proceeded down the runway. When Gurung eventually appeared on stage wearing his specially made “Vote” T-shirt with Harris Walz on the back, the beaded embroidered coconut tree outfit from the exhibition suddenly made perfect sense.
Gurung discussed the idea behind his show after it ended. The designer remembered attending Holi, a festival of pleasure and color that celebrates fresh starts with excitement and unity, in Nepal this past March. America experienced division and questioned if the festival had any inspirational value.
The collection conveys a feeling of comfort and desertion, but it also exudes optimism and hopefulness. “We were going to lean in hard toward this, since I’ve been dressing [Kamala Harris] for a while,” he told FashionNetwork.com onstage.
“I stand here today on the shoulders of women because I believe in the strength of women. My mother, my aunts, and my sisters are there when I see her.”
The designer of the embroidered coconut dress claimed that it was all a joke in reference to the widely shared moment when Kamala shared a story about her mother asking, “What’s wrong with you? Are you saying that you simply fell from a coconut tree?”
Consequently, the designer mentioned that shortly after the performance, he would be selling the T-shirts supporting the Harris Walz ticket on his website.
Gurung clarified that he had been wanting to perform there for a while. “I ride a Citi bike wherever I go because I live downtown. I’ve wanted to do something here for the past ten years, every time I pass this building. You can only dream that big and make things happen in this country.”
Who Decides War?
The company evidently had something unique up its sleeve from the outset of the Who Decides War 10th collection display at the Hall des Lumieres on Saturday, whose walls projected a series of Greco-Roman revival buildings common throughout Europe.
The track, which was directed by Trap artist Cash Cobain and featured a live children’s orchestra with a musical track overlay, confirmed the hunch. It was easy to ask if the husband-wife design team’s stay in Paris during the 2024 LVMH Prize competition’s first round affected the collection given their near proximity to the world of haute couture.
The majority of the show featured evening gowns and dresses with a nod to the red carpet that integrated the brand’s codes; D’Amore and Bravado demonstrated that their skill extended beyond streetwear with their interpretation of the stained-glass window riff, shredding effects, tulle overlays, and straps that combined to become fabric.
Even the boys in the show, dressed in sophisticated “suits” with cutouts of the brand’s iconic pointed arch-stain glass window, appeared more glamorous than club-ready.
Tela D’Amore gave a behind-the-scenes interview to FashionNetwork.com, which, given that singers like YG, Masego, Nle Choppa, and Selah Marley were also present, elevated the post-show craze to a whole new level.
It was all about fitting in and letting go of expectations. “It was an escape from all forms of limitations and stereotypes that people place you in,” she clarified, going on to say that the main focus of the experience was collaborating with legendary producer and trap artist Cash Cobain. Talent can shine in multiple specialized categories regardless of the industry in which it exists, according to D’Amore.
“The runway music serves precisely to highlight the orchestra. Cobain has found success in one area, but it’s not his only weakness. It’s important to emphasize this, especially with these young artists who are incredibly gifted and who follow their passions and successes while also showcasing an amazing range that should be honored.”
During the conversation about the musical cooperation, D’Amore made reference to the brand’s output. Despite not making it to the final eight, D’amore shared his thoughts on the LVMH Prize experience.
“We learned so much from the whole event. I discovered that we can easily go up to, if not above, each other in this room of gifted people, “added the speaker.
With his enthusiasm, following, and evolving design, if Saturday’s performance is any guide, they’ve already advanced to a new level.
Sergio Hudson
Not only was this Hudson’s first performance at NeueHouse, but it was also the inaugural for the posh powerhouse co-working and cultural center located just off Park Avenue South.
There has never been a NYFW runway show at the location. It was a lot of fun all around, thanks to a partnership with Woodford Reserve whisky, which included a humorous film that doubled as an effective commercial campaign, in which Hudson compared whiskey and fashion. Doors opened an hour early so that visitors could mingle in the large lobby and sip freshly made beverages.
The show started with the seductive slow jazz sounds of Anita Baker and Nancy Wilson as models like Veronica Webb, Martha Hunt, and Jessica Stam (who has returned to several runways this season) once the new logistics-lifesaving CFDA Shop with Google-sponsored shuttle bus arrived with the last guests.
With his exquisite yet understated special occasion day and nightwear, Hudson has mastered the art of the “evolution-not-a-revolution” in design.
Hudson discussed his motivation to help ladies feel their best in a backstage interview.
“It all began with my mother—the most fashionable person I have ever met—who was a lively and fashionable woman. The designer told FashionNetwork.com, “Everything I make that you see, she might have worn at some point in her life.
Sheldon, Sergio’s mother, who taught the designer who was born and reared in South Carolina how to sew, was present.
Hudson went on to elaborate on his classic chic style.
“The woman and the person you are clothing are everything. My goal is to enhance each person’s uniqueness rather than transform them into someone they are not; I am all about helping them feel and look better by accessorizing their personality. That’s the woman, Sergio Hudson,” he continued.
That may be, but she’ll have company this season. In keeping with the mostly pastel color scheme, Hudson debuted a men’s capsule collection.
“We have a lot of requests for men’s styles, so we said let’s give it a try and took six looks from women’s and developed men’s styles and said let’s see what happens,” the designer added.
Standing close to Hudson backstage, brand owner Inga Beckham—exactly the woman Hudson is dressing—undoubtedly has growth on her mind. She was thrilled to inform Christos TK about a fresh project for his live-streamed retail channel, Covet by Christos.
The vintage specialist will be selling current inventory from Hudson.
It’s a new approach to shopping and distribution for us. We are attempting to change course and look at other options because of what is going on in the world,” the spokesperson stated, adding that the brand is presently distributed in Dubai and Canada and is also available on Amazon Luxury.
Jonathan Cohen
On many levels, Jonathan Cohen’s performance on Saturday morning at The Center in the West Village was delightful. Taking in his vibrant, well-curated collection was made all the more exciting by the easy access, devoted following of brand experts and friends, coffee, and baked goods.
In an interview with FashionNetwork.com, Cohen revealed that he became aware of sound-color synesthesia as a disorder that had an impact on him.
When you eat, or in some situations, listen to music, you may see different colors if you have synesthesia. There is a strong emotional relationship between color and emotion. Since I don’t have any, I took a different method by reading about other people’s experiences,” Cohen remarked.
A background tune by the Cocteau Twins was playing. Cohen believes there is a transformative quality to the voice of singer Elizabeth Fraser.
“One woman said while listening to a symphony; first, she sees white in the beginning, then pinks and red and then blues, and then it’s a supernova of color,” he continued.
With an homage to the exploding star phenomena, Cohen ‘tackled’ the subject by intensifying his anemone theme, a specialty of his. Cohen used brilliant mixed color and pattern. In an ode to another celebrity, Anna Wintour, he further changed things up with tie-dye, superb beading, and vibrant layered Swarovski crystal belts.
