Another beautiful day in September allowed people to enjoy outdoor venues, skyscraper views, sunbathed lofts, and the iconic Apollo Theatre.
KIDSUPER
Fashion shows serve as both a brand-building exercise and a means of introducing a designer’s new collection. In fact, some would say that the concentration on social media content acquired from runway photographs is the brand’s sole purpose. After all, fashion experts such as buyers, editors, and other press can simply view it at the showroom.
Colm Dillane of KidSuper has always focused on brand building. The self-funded designer—who has received LVMH Prize and CFDA nominations and earned a coveted guest design gig at Louis Vuitton men’s just before Pharrell Williams was announced—has always relied on sponsorships and brand collaborations, which have included Canada Goose, Sony PlayStation, a Marvel Spiderman video game, Meta, and a Uniswap Café tie-up coming up next week.
His most recent collaborations include Puma, a natural fit given KidSuper’s streetwear appeal, and LoveSac, a 21st-century adaptation of the 1970s beanbag chair idea seating cushion that intentionally seeks to be associated with fashion. Dillane values cross-disciplinary collaboration and has experimented with several creative methods, including breaking fashion norms. True to fashion, the designer held a show at the famed Apollo Theater to debut his new collection, which comprised twists on his now-signature patchwork and embroidered men’s suits, flamboyant faux furs, deconstructed overcoats, and tracksuits, all accessorized with bright bags and scarves.
His most recent collaborations include Puma, a natural fit given KidSuper’s streetwear appeal, and LoveSac, a 21st-century adaptation of the 1970s beanbag chair idea seating cushion that intentionally seeks to be associated with fashion. Dillane values cross-disciplinary collaboration and has experimented with several creative methods, including breaking fashion norms. True to fashion, the designer held a show at the famed Apollo Theater to debut his new collection, which comprised twists on his now-signature patchwork and embroidered men’s suits, flamboyant faux furs, deconstructed overcoats, and tracksuits, all accessorized with bright bags and scarves.
The episode began with the latest installment of Dillane’s written animation, ‘Scram’, which follows a group of New York City kids, including a young Colm and a scrappy cat, and their adventures around the city. It was also a means to introduce some Puma merchandise.
As the final comic fled the stage, Dillane appeared in a new Puma-motif tracksuit, revealing a special guest surprise, Jim Jones. The rapper from the 1990s and 1980s performed his popular baller-friendly song ‘We Fly High’ while Dillane and the comics danced onstage. It was an appropriate song for the young designer who has flown high by forging his own path.
DIOTIMA
Rachel Scott of Diotima is the leading New York rising star to watch. Since beginning her collection in 2021, which focuses on artisanal craft in Jamaica (she was born in Kingston), the Brooklyn-based designer has received the CFDA’s Emerging Designer of the Year Award.
Thus, the fashion audience, including old-school journalists, retailers, and new-school web enthusiasts, were delighted to discover another stunning appearance by Scott at the Chinatown studio on Monday afternoon. In a large window-filled studio swathed in sunlight and white paint, the designer lined up the models in two series on the sides of the rooms, with models frequently stepping into the crowd at large that milled around the room blasting a reggae-centric soundtrack decorated in red-painted wood and red burning candles by artist TK meant to symbolize ritual, according to Scott, who spoke to the press in the corner of the room (though largely inaudible on
In the show notes, Scott described the collection as a summer memory reconstructed “of a place, of an idea,” which came from a “vivid Caribbean dream.”
This encompassed revivalist ritual dances, Sunday church scenes, and dancehall street gatherings. According to the press release, Jamaican ceremonial tradition was reflected in “blood red crochet headscarves, opaque tights worn under white dresses, and exposed slip hems reveal interior worlds.”
What made the collection so appealing was Scott’s expert use of ornamentation. (According to one editor, wearing a garment from the collection also provides ASMR effects).
Shells cascaded down the front of gowns, beaded fringes swished on hemlines, crinkled silver and gold metallic paillettes trimmed waist cut-outs on sleek tight knit dresses or thigh slits, and metal grommets adorned a deep V-front dress bodice like armor.
Other collection elements included “broderie anglaise reminiscent of palm trees or weed leaves or both” infused on denim or as a hemline, crisp cotton clothing, sheer designs, and a mesh netting fabric transformed into a beaded deep V-neck gown or a layering item under a white suit. Overall, the collection provided a welcome respite from the week’s grind.
ZANKOV
Henry Zankov capitalized on the national paddle-sports boom, which includes Manhattan, by showing at Hudson Yards’ Reserve-Padel club. He staged his Spring/Summer 2025 collection on the courts, which were adorned with large-scale glazed raku ceramic Stonehenge-inspired totems created in cooperation with artist Ben Mazey. If you thought it was just tennis skirts and polos, think again. Zankov was thinking of Sonic Youth rather than the US Open.
“This collection was about being rebellious and unruly, mixing and subverting preppy glam.” I saw Kim Gordon in May, and it reminded me of my high school and college years, when I was into alternative rock and grunge. When I initially went to America, I was introduced to American culture for the first time. “It was a memorable moment for me,” the designer stated.
He stated that seeing her brought back those thoughts and memories because they shaped his taste in dress and music. Zankov’s approach evoked Nineties-era grunge, and he also leaned into the dichotomy of New York’s urbanity and its neighboring coastline.
“It’s like living in a city yet close to the beach. Some things felt both beachy and city-like. It’s a preppy mesh polo shirt or jacquard windowpane checks inspired by old wallpaper matte and shine with transparent sequins, for a glam spin on sequins. “I wanted to add more playful shine,” he explained. The latter resembled a grunge-style flannel. He created huge Merino wool shorts that looked like lambswool in pointelle, inspired by vintage socks, and adorned them with giant paillettes that represented the sea.
The designer collaborated with jewelry designer Presley Oldham—nephew of Todd Oldham, a designer from the 1990s—on sea glass and Murano glass jewelry and added sunglasses owing to a new acquaintance with Selima from Selima Optique. In another ’90s homage, one pair was a copy of a style designed for Carolyn Bessette.
New categories aren’t the only way Zankov moves his brand forward. He is also researching the usage of more woven materials.
“I am a knitwear designer, so I normally do this, but I’ve always wanted to produce wovens to expand the brand’s visual language, pattern color, and texture. One piece is a trench coat in bonded vichy cherry red and yellow trench coat, which I consider neutral. Each component stands on its own. The styling is highly varied, and I wanted the wardrobe to be easily disassembled and combined.”
AKNVAS
The Spring/Summer 2025 collection was held in a glass-walled venue on the 37th floor of 10 Hudson Yards, and it was literally far up in many ways. The business collaborated with Lux THC Edibles and rolled goods store The Travel Agency, providing customers with a goodie bag full of goodies to try. Christian Juul Nielsen, a post-show backstage designer, was ecstatic without the use of cannabis products, thanks to a fun and thrilling collection full of new and interesting stuff.
The event, dubbed ‘Nordic Midsummer Camp,’ was likely a journey down memory lane for Juul Nielsen.
“It’s divided into three sections;’ Urban Scout’ is first arriving at the camp, and as they begin interacting, the girls start to borrow the boy’s practical belts as bra tops,” he added of the crisp shirting bralettes worn with little bloomer shorts.
“The second part is them playing in the Danish summer flower fields; the flowers get stuck in the boy’s shorts and on the hot pants,” he added, alluding to a set of floral pattern eyelets in white and bright colors of monochromatic outfits that appeared inviting and economically successful.
According to the designer, shimmering sequin styles, as well as studded and pierced denim styles, were inspired by the sky’s reflection on dew drops shining on one’s skin.
Of course, every camper needs a satchel, and Nielsen was happy when the brand launched its first bag. “It’s a major deal given the amount of effort that went into it. “We want to go deeper into this category,” he added.
Expanding the brand into new categories will undoubtedly benefit his present and future wholesale clients, who include Saks Fifth Avenue, Fwrd, Revolve, and Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong.
