Milan Men’s Fashion Week opened on a distinctly wintery note, with designers drawing inspiration from alpine sports and cold-weather dressing. Ralph Lauren and Dsquared2 set the tone with collections rooted in performance, layering, and seasonal luxury.
Ralph Lauren marked his return to Milan after 24 years by presenting a vision of American elegance adapted for winter. Classic tailoring, including tweed suits, appeared alongside rugged boots and cowboy footwear. The collection also referenced the upcoming Winter Olympics in Italy, where the designer will dress the US team. Ski-inspired looks, patterned knits, and a blue ski suit accented with turquoise reflected the spirit of Aspen-style winter dressing.
Dsquared2 followed with a bold autumn-winter 2026-27 showcase featuring exaggerated proportions and statement footwear. Puffer jackets shaped like dresses and oversized parkas paired with XXL faux fur hats defined the brand’s “hot as ice” aesthetic. Actor Hudson Williams opened the show, reinforcing the collection’s sporty and theatrical energy.
Beyond the runway, several brands aligned their presentations with the Alpine theme ahead of the Milan-Cortina Winter Games. EA7, K-Way, and Li-Ning announced winter-focused events that combined sport and fashion.
Earlier in the day, Zegna offered a quieter, more refined perspective. Designer Alessandro Sartori presented a wardrobe inspired by heritage, with structured jackets, fluid trousers, and innovative fabrics in earthy tones. Industry leaders described the collection as a thoughtful balance between tradition and forward-looking design.
The week unfolds against a challenging backdrop for Italian fashion. Menswear turnover declined in 2025, with exports falling and only leather garments showing growth. While demand from China has softened, Italian brands are actively exploring new markets, including Latin America, the Middle East, and India.
Looking ahead, the upcoming Giorgio Armani show is expected to maintain continuity while introducing subtle updates in colour, fabric, and proportion. With major labels still to present, Milan Men’s Fashion Week continues to reflect both creative resilience and industry realities.
