For her pre-fall collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative head, found inspiration in Marlene Dietrich’s iconic tailored suits, delving into the legacy of Christian Dior’s clientele. Chiuri’s mood board featured Dietrich’s modern and daring fashion choices, leading her to infuse the collection with nods to the actress’s style evolution.
Dietrich’s gender-fluid outfits in films like “Morocco” prompted Chiuri to incorporate neckties, fedoras, and revamped Bar-like jackets with sleeker lapels. The collection also echoed Dietrich’s off-the-shoulder gown from the Oscars and a ¾-sleeved long dress, both reminiscent of her historical fashion moments.
In addition to Dietrich’s influence, Chiuri took cues from Dior’s parallel business in the United States, particularly in New York. Dior’s American venture adopted a more casual and Americanized approach, aligning with the evolving sportswear category pioneered by American women designers like Elizabeth Dawes and Claire McCardell. This reference shaped the collection’s generously cut chinos, leisure suits with the Dior monogram, and dark denim jeans featuring the house logo on upturned cuffs.
Chiuri revitalized the map print from the Dior archives and highlighted landmarks from both Paris and New York, including the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty, as decorative motifs. Notably, the collection emphasized the comfort and adaptability of jersey materials for hourglass dresses and knits for voluminous skirts, mirroring the freedom and versatility synonymous with Dior’s New York output.
