Celebrating four decades in the fashion industry, Marc Jacobs showcased his latest collection at the Park Avenue Armory, opting for a unique and subdued approach that focused on the garments themselves. In contrast to the grandeur of recent mega fashion shows, Jacobs kept it simple, emphasizing the clothes over extravagant sets and celebrity appearances.
The runway incorporated a theme of proportion, accentuated by a supersized classic folding card table and chairs at the top of the runway, creating a visual play with the show’s overarching concept. Jacobs, known for his innovative designs, utilized oversized silhouettes that seemed to rest off the body, giving the appearance of paper dolls.
The collection, titled ‘Wonder,’ featured abstracted and exaggerated designs, exploring the memorable, mundane, naive, and elegant aspects of fashion. Oversized fifties-era pencil skirts, shrunken hoodies, and exaggerated bottoms created a dynamic play on proportions, capturing attention and challenging traditional sizing expectations.
The genius of Jacobs’ approach lay in the abstraction and exaggeration of the garments. From misshapen combat boots to gargantuan handbags, each piece demonstrated a deliberate departure from conventional sizing, offering a fresh perspective on fashion. Despite their oversized nature, the clothes somehow looked size-appropriate, striking a balance between exaggerated elements and more traditionally sized pieces.
Notable pieces included chunky knit sweaters, a structured pea coat, and mirrored gowns, each showcasing commercial appeal. Exquisite details, such as sheer pale white garments adorned with multicolored gemstones, added a touch of glamour to the collection.
The runway presentation, complemented by massive retro-teased hairstyles, created a surreal yet captivating fashion moment. The collection challenged the notion of being ‘Instagram-able,’ emphasizing the tangible allure of these oversized looks in real life.
In the midst of the fashion fantasy, protests outside the Armory by PETA and another outside the Americas Society/Council of the Americas underscored the designer’s influence and the societal impact of fashion. Jacobs’ oversized collection, almost bordering on the absurd, offered a whimsical escape into the fantastical world of fashion—a welcome respite in these uncertain times.
