Ghesquière’s Spring/Summer 2024 exhibition is transportive – intrinsically in the spirit of the trip that the Maison is plainly fond of in all of its storytelling. The first glance is an open invitation to explore a new area. Day-to-day attire has never looked this beautiful. Nicolas Ghesquière is coming out swinging, showing the new Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 collection on the Champs-Élysées construction site. In complete contrast to museums and opulent mansions, the whole set is orange.
The long, billowing skirts, which are made from two different combinations of patterns and charmeuse, are particularly indicative of the collection’s airiness and fanciful undertones. Black is layered over white, plaid over stripes, and dark over light to convey a sense of playfulness.
In a way, the event is reminiscent of “Girls Just Want to Have Fun,” a major single by Cyndi Lauper, but on a far grander scale. Look 8’s corseted silhouette strikes a chord between harsh and soft, an essential element of Ghesquière’s aesthetic. Look 16 is an enormous structure on the top over a small skirt. Look 19 is an asymmetrical structure on the top over a midi skirt.
The use of exaggeration adds a humorous new dimension to the standard repertoire. The Maison offers the most tempting selection of arm candies, from little silhouettes to a massive four-sided folded bag. The oversized shoulders, in particular, are sure to spark conversation.
The eighties kitsch is further emphasised by the creative director’s use of jewellery in the last
few looks.
The ultra-shininess of Looks 24 and 25 sticks out. This is a delectable caramelised dream—beautiful and irresistible despite its effortless simplicity. Look 29’s aesthetic is a throwback to the ’80s counterculture, but Ghesquière updates it with a handful of his own rules. There’s a lot to like about this presentation, from the leather belt hanging low on the hips to the pinstriped trousers with suspenders (Looks 34 and 35).