The Musee Rodin in Paris provided the enchanting setting for Dior’s latest couture collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri on Monday. The backdrop of artist Marta Roberti’s lush landscapes, featuring exotic birds and ethereal trees, added an imaginative touch to the designs. VIP attendees, including Natalie Portman and Rosamund Pike, were captivated by the fusion of these creative realms.
Chiuri’s collection drew inspiration from power, feminism, and the divine. The classical tone was set with a crepe cape and long, draping sleeves, and subtle adornments like pearl or gold earrings added elegance. The garments featured tunic styles and traditional embellishments, creating a sense of nostalgia with their classic silhouettes. The loose fit and subtle appeal added a touch of understated elegance to the overall look. Modern elements were brought in with shimmer, sparkle, and Renaissance sleeves, bridging the past and present. A white apron-shirt broke the ethereal continuity and presented a fashion-forward mix.
Roberti’s goddess-inspired artworks on the walls transformed the runway into a modern pantheon, where models resembled exquisite deities. The structured jackets and coats, accompanied by a calm colour palette of white, beige, silver, and pale gold, reflected the elegance of classical sculptures and columns. Pearls intertwined with silver threads represented purity and embodied the duality of strength and fragility inherent in femininity.
Acclaimed filmmaker Baz Luhrmann discussed the challenging predicament of participating in a glamorous fashion event during a time of civil unrest in France. Luhrmann acknowledged the sorrow and public outcry in Paris but emphasized the significance of art and beauty as sources of hope.
French house Celine decided to cancel its Paris Fashion Week show due to the nationwide riots, while other LVMH houses like Dior proceeded with their runways.
Designer Daniel Roseberry continued to impress with his whimsical couture collection for Schiaparelli. Exaggerated proportions, provocative moments, and ironic touches defined the show, with models strutting down the runway in gigantic sheep fleeces and sheep trotter heels.
Iris Van Herpen presented an ethereal collection that transported the audience to a futuristic underwater universe, infused with ’80s geometric aesthetics. The designs, contrasting whites and blacks with oceanic tones, challenged the status quo by exploring a possible future of waterborne urbanism. The collection merged aquatic life and geometric shapes, with corsetry mirroring deep-sea creatures and delicate layers floating like translucent jellyfish.
Giambattista Valli unveiled his latest couture collection, showcasing daring and decadent looks. Playful proportions, monochromatic shades, and juxtapositions of different epochs created a joyful excess. The collection’s cornerstone was “the drop,” seen in the fluidity of shoulders, busts, and oversized dropped bows. Valli’s trompe l’oeil creations blurred the line between the front and back of the gowns, creating a contradiction of sexy and ethereal.
Overall, the Fall-Winter 2023 couture collections demonstrated the designers’ creativity, innovation, and ability to spark discussion within the fashion world.
