Emerging designers in London are facing significant challenges as they struggle to participate in London Fashion Week due to financial constraints. Notable designers like Dilara Findikoğlu, who has dressed celebrities like Cardi B and Margot Robbie, have had to cancel their runway shows, citing a lack of finances as the primary reason. These difficulties have been exacerbated by several factors, including the ongoing cost of living crisis, the repercussions of Brexit, and a cautious approach to buying by retailers. The consequences are dire, with London’s status as a hub of creativity under threat.
Fashion week events are vital for designers as they provide a platform to gain recognition from buyers and editors, ultimately leading to their inclusion in fashion shoots and stores. However, the cost of these shows is prohibitively high, with estimates suggesting that even a modest runway show can range from £10,000 to £50,000. Consequently, emerging designers are seeking alternative ways to showcase their collections. For example, the hyped label Chopova Lowena only hosts one show per year, reducing costs while increasing anticipation.
Additionally, designers are exploring alternative methods of presenting their work. Menswear designer Robyn Lynch, for instance, is organizing an exhibition of her work at the NOW Gallery in Greenwich. The financial pressures in the fashion industry have made it difficult for emerging designers to stay afloat, and the situation is unsustainable unless a significant volume of products is sold.
The traditional sponsorship model has also been affected, with fewer brands willing to provide financial support to emerging fashion labels. Brexit has further complicated matters by increasing the challenges associated with working with European manufacturers and exporting products to European markets, making it both harder and more expensive.
An educational gap is another concern. Many emerging designers graduate from prestigious fashion education institutions in London, but they often lack essential business skills. It’s increasingly clear that designers need more than just creative vision; they must understand the business side of the fashion industry to succeed. Young talents are graduating with ambitions of starting their independent brands, but there’s a growing realization that the fashion business requires more than just creative ideas.
These challenges are not uniform across the industry. For instance, designers from ethnic minority backgrounds with lower incomes face even more significant hurdles due to systemic racism and financial constraints. It’s feared that these financial pressures could exclude talented designers who lack independent wealth. London has historically been known for nurturing working-class fashion talent, including iconic figures like Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Christopher Kane. However, there’s an argument that the financial difficulties facing young talent today would have made it nearly impossible for these designers to succeed.
Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council, believes that increased support is necessary, especially in the lead-up to the general election. The creative industries, including fashion, are considered one of the nation’s superpowers, and it’s essential to invest in them to ensure they continue to flourish.
Despite these challenges, some argue that adversity can foster creativity. The fashion industry has seen revolutionary figures emerge during recessions, and challenging times can lead to innovative ideas and groundbreaking work. However, some individuals within the industry believe that there’s a need for a return to London’s traditional spirit of being disruptive, thought-provoking, and boundary-pushing to truly reinvigorate its creative scene.
