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As revivalist dressing tightens its grip on fashion, with designers referencing trends from the 1990s, Y2K, and — soon to follow — the so-called Indie Sleaze of the 2010s, the autumn/winter collections offer some respite: a demure undercurrent in which hemlines drop, necklines rise, and more “classic” silhouettes take centre stage. There was a New Look-style full skirt for every MiuMiu-inspired micro mini at the shows last February: MatthieuBlazy’sBottegaVeneta debut included mid-length leather versions in purple or bright yellow; Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons paired grey and black skirts with tonal sweaters at Prada; and Maria GraziaChiurico-ordinated traditional Bar jackets with calf-grazing pleated styles at Dior. Guillaume Henry, designer of Patou, took the sportswear codes established by the brand’s founder.

The white vest, which appeared in a number of collections, was one of the most talked-about things from the autumn/winter season. Prada and Loewe offered classic ribbed versions with their logos on the front; Chloé and BottegaVeneta kept the tank clean, tucked into trousers or jeans; while Sacai’s slightly sheer version was paired with a long black skirt. The white vest was one of the season’s most talked-about items, appearing in a number of collections. The luxury vest was part of an overall trend of designers returning back to fundamentals. “I looked to the ideal of ease but also acceleration, the kind that is natural to New York,” says Khaite designer Catherine Holstein, who presented white crew neck T-shirts with black, oversized blazers.