Development of Bioengineered Textiles Using Algae-Based Fibres for Sustainable Fashion

Prof (Dr) Bhawana Chanana,

Professor and Director,

School of Fashion Technology, Amity University Mumbai

Komal D,

Assistant Professor,

Amity School of Fashion Technology, Amity University Mumbai

Dr Bhawna Soun,

Amity School of Fashion Technology, Amity University Mumbai

Abstract Bioengineered textiles, which combine genetic engineering, biological systems, and biotechnological methods to create ecologically friendly textiles, are a revolutionary advancement in sustainable material creation. Bioengineered fibres, in contrast to conventional textiles made from cotton, wool, or synthetic polymers, are frequently produced using renewable resources like algal biomass and genetically modified microbes. Microalgae like Spirulina platensis and Chlorella vulgaris are particularly attracting interest due to their high protein and cellulose content, which makes it possible to produce biodegradable fibres with practical benefits, including moisture management, breathability, and antibacterial activity. Recent developments in the creation of textiles based on algae are examined in this review, including the procurement of raw materials, the extraction of biopolymers, the spinning of fibres, fabric engineering, and life cycle evaluation. Furthermore, improved predictive modelling, smart fabric features, and sustainable performance optimisation are provided by the combination of artificial intelligence (AI) and nanotechnology. When taken as a whole, these developments establish bioengineered textiles as important facilitators of the shift to a sustainable and circular textile sector. Keywords: Bioengineered textiles, algae-based fibres, sustainability, biopolymers, Artificial Intelligence, nanotechnology, circular economy

1. Introduction

The textile industry is undergoing a paradigm shift towards sustainability, driven by the environmental challenges posed by traditional textile production methods. Conventional textiles, such as cotton and synthetic fibres like polyester, are associated with high water consumption, pesticide use, and microplastic pollution. In response, bioengineered textiles have emerged as a promising alternative, leveraging biological organisms and processes to create sustainable fabrics.

Bioengineered textiles are developed using organisms like genetically modified yeast, bacteria, fungi, and algae. These organisms can produce fibres with unique properties, such as enhanced strength, elasticity, and biodegradability. For instance, genetically engineered yeast can synthesise spider silk proteins, resulting in fibres that are both strong and lightweight. Similarly, mycelium, derived from fungal roots, has been used to create leather-like materials.

Among these organisms, microalgae such as Spirulina platensis and Chlorella vulgaris have gained attention for their high cellulose and protein content, making them suitable candidates for bio-fibre production. These algae can be cultivated in controlled environments, offering a renewable and sustainable source of raw material for textile manufacturing.

2. Materials & Methods

2.1 Raw Material Procurement

Microalgae like Spirulina platensis and Chlorella vulgaris are frequently utilised in bio-fibre production due to their high cellulose and protein content. Dried algal biomass is typically sourced from certified organic suppliers or cultured in controlled environments using photobioreactors, maintained under optimised conditions of light, pH, and nutrients. Extraction agents like sodium alginate and carrageenan are commonly isolated through aqueous and alkaline treatments, following standardised methodologies.

The cultivation of these microalgae offers several advantages. They can grow rapidly, do not require arable land, and can be cultivated using wastewater, thereby reducing the environmental footprint of textile production. Additionally, algae cultivation contributes to carbon sequestration, as these organisms absorb CO₂ during photosynthesis.

2.2 Fibre Production

Biopolymer extraction from algal biomass generally involves mechanical disruption followed by solvent extraction (commonly ethanol/water) and subsequent filtration. The purified extracts are then precipitated and dried to yield usable filamentous materials. Techniques such as wet-spinning and electrospinning are widely used to process these biopolymers into fibres. Cross-linking agents like calcium chloride are often incorporated to enhance the mechanical integrity and durability of the resulting fibres.

Wet spinning involves extruding the biopolymer solution into a coagulation bath, where fibres are formed through solvent exchange. Electrospinning, on the other hand, utilises an electric field to draw fine fibres from the biopolymer solution. Both methods have been successfully employed to produce fibres from alginate and carrageenan, offering flexibility in fibre diameter and morphology.

2.3 Textile Fabrication

The bio-derived fibres are typically converted into yarns and woven into fabric samples using lab-scale textile machinery. To improve fabric properties such as water repellence, wrinkle resistance, and dyeability, environmentally friendly surface finishing methods are often applied. For instance, natural dyes extracted from algae, such as chlorophyll and phycocyanin, can be used to impart colour to the fabrics, reducing reliance on synthetic dyes.

Moreover, the incorporation of natural binders and cross-linkers, like calcium ions, can enhance the structural stability of the fabrics. These treatments not only improve the mechanical properties of the textiles but also contribute to their biodegradability and environmental compatibility.

2.4 Characterisation of Bioengineered Fabric

Standard testing procedures are employed to evaluate the mechanical properties of bioengineered textiles, including tensile strength, elasticity, and abrasion resistance (e.g., via Universal Testing Machines). Additional analyses, such as thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and UV spectrometry, help assess thermal and ultraviolet resistance. Antimicrobial efficacy is commonly measured using zone of inhibition assays against pathogens like Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. Biodegradability is evaluated by burying samples in compost-rich soil and monitoring decomposition over defined time periods.

These characterisation techniques are essential to ensure that the bioengineered textiles meet the performance standards required for various applications, including fashion, medical textiles, and technical fabrics. The results from these tests inform further optimisation of the Fibre production and finishing processes.

2.5 Environmental Assessment

Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) tools like SimaPro are increasingly utilised to compare the environmental impacts—such as energy consumption, water usage, and carbon footprint—of algal-based textiles with conventional materials like cotton and polyester. Studies have shown that algae-based textiles have a significantly lower environmental impact, owing to the efficient cultivation of algae and the biodegradability of the resulting fabrics.

For example, algae can be cultivated using non-arable land and saline water, reducing competition with food crops and freshwater resources. Additionally, the rapid growth rate of algae allows for high biomass yields, making them a sustainable raw material for textile production.

2.6 AI and Smart Integration

Recent studies have explored the integration of machine learning algorithms to predict fabric performance under varying environmental conditions (e.g., heat, humidity, wear). Moreover, smart functionalities, including biosensing capabilities, have been experimentally embedded in algae-based textiles using flexible electronic circuits, offering potential for applications in wearable technology.

The incorporation of nanomaterials, such as silver and zinc oxide nanoparticles, synthesised through green chemistry methods, can impart additional functionalities to the textiles, including antimicrobial activity and UV protection. These advancements align with the growing demand for smart textiles that can monitor physiological parameters and adapt to environmental changes.

3. Conclusion

The increasing urgency for sustainable solutions in the textile industry has catalysed the development of bioengineered textiles, particularly those derived from algal biomass. These materials offer a promising alternative to conventional cotton and synthetic fibres, both of which are associated with high environmental costs. Algae-based fibres, especially those extracted from Spirulina and Chlorella, demonstrate significant potential in producing biodegradable, antimicrobial, and eco-friendly fabrics.

The utilisation of techniques such as wet- and electrospinning, along with advanced surface finishing methods, enables the production of fabrics that are not only high-performing but also aligned with environmental goals. Moreover, the convergence of biotechnology, nanotechnology, and Artificial Intelligence is reshaping the landscape of textile innovation. Through AI-driven predictive modelling and sensor integration, these textiles can be tailored for adaptive, smart applications in fashion, medical wearables, and technical clothing.

Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) further confirms the environmental viability of these materials compared to traditional textiles. As this multidisciplinary field evolves, algae-derived bioengineered textiles stand at the forefront of next-generation sustainable design, with the potential to redefine industry norms and consumer expectations in alignment with circular economy principles.

4. Future Perspectives

The development of algae-based bioengineered textiles marks only the beginning of what promises to be a transformative shift in the textile and fashion industries. As environmental concerns grow and consumer demand for sustainable alternatives rises, the future holds significant potential for advancing both the materials and technologies involved in this domain. One promising area is the genetic enhancement of microalgae strains—such as Spirulina platensis and Chlorella vulgaris—to boost yields of cellulose, proteins, and biopolymers like alginate and carrageenan, which are critical for fibre production (Chlorella vulgaris, 2023). Future research can also explore metabolic engineering to develop algal strains capable of producing functional additives directly within their biomass, such as UV-blocking compounds or natural pigments.

Another direction lies in scaling up cultivation and extraction processes through automated and AI-driven photobioreactor systems. Current lab-scale techniques can be optimised for industrial manufacturing using real-time sensing and process control algorithms, reducing cost, time, and resource inputs. AI tools may also further enhance predictive modelling for fibre properties based on environmental variables during growth and fabrication phases, ensuring reproducibility and performance in commercial settings (Green Nanomaterials, 2023).

In terms of textile innovation, multi-functional smart textiles embedded with biosensors or responsive nanomaterials present a cutting-edge future application. These could be used in healthcare, sports, and defence industries where fabrics need to adapt dynamically to temperature, sweat, or bacterial presence. Algae-based fabrics integrated with graphene or biocompatible conductive nanomaterials can enable real-time health monitoring, motion detection, and environmental feedback, while remaining biodegradable and skin-safe (Green Nanomaterials for Smart Textiles, 2023).

Furthermore, the integration of algae-derived textiles into circular economy frameworks offers long-term value. Since these textiles are compostable and biodegradable, closed-loop systems could be designed where worn-out garments are reclaimed, decomposed under controlled composting, and reintroduced into the biomass cycle. This presents a major opportunity for fashion brands aiming to transition to zero-waste production and cradle-to-cradle design models (Algae-Based Coatings, 2023).

Interdisciplinary collaboration will be essential to unlock these possibilities. Partnerships between biotechnologists, textile engineers, AI experts, and sustainability researchers can foster innovation across the algae-to-garment pipeline. Regulatory and certification frameworks must also evolve to support commercialisation and assure consumers of the authenticity and eco-credentials of bioengineered products (Textile Fibers, 2023).

Finally, consumer education and market acceptance will play a vital role in adoption. Future studies could investigate the perception, usability, and long-term wearability of algae-based textiles across demographic groups. Educational campaigns on the environmental benefits of such textiles could further drive responsible consumer behaviour, ultimately contributing to systemic sustainability in the textile industry.

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