Resorts were once geared toward the fashionable nomads of café society; today, they must appeal to so-called latte girls and their kin. Is it any surprise, then, that this season, which has been on the sales floor the longest, has become something of a mixed bag? Designers are responsible for predicting the demands of clients who may be chasing the sun or snow while also trying to shine at year-end celebrations. It’s a broad and ambiguous mandate that is exacerbated by a difficult social and economic climate.
Denim, namely jeans, dominated practically all of the collections reviewed by Vogue Runway this season. There are numerous alternatives, and while the larger leg remains, there is a clear trend toward a thinner leg and a higher waist. That last feature ties in with the bohemian narrative, which weaves early-aughts nostalgia (think Sienna Miller) with the original hippy icon Anita Pallenberg, the subject of a recent documentary.
At Valentino, newly hired creative director Alessandro Michele created a big Avant les Débuts collection that looked back at Pallenberg’s time but from a fresh perspective. He referred to the house’s founder, Valentino Garavani,’s 1968 all-white couture collection, while other designers were inspired by mid-’60s space-age fashion.
Erdem Moralioglu, Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno, and Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri elevated, but did not transcend, their collections with demi-couture-level craftsmanship. Pearl embellishments, like those seen in haute couture displays, were particularly popular. Animal prints were also prevalent; the holidays will be wild with all of the leopard-print faux furs and ponyskin toppers available. These jackets and coats may warm a shoulder or two, which are left elegantly exposed by the season’s more exposed designs. Transparent skirts and pants, typically paired with briefs or maillots, are another seasonal trend.
Deconstruction continues to be popular. Metaphorically, this practice of flipping items inside out, revealing seams, and stacking garments on top of one another reflects global instability. In a jumper or boilersuit, you’ll be ready to act as needed.
The Olympics have shined a bright light on fashion’s athleisure/streetwear craze. The Games, of course, originated in Greece, and designers are draping and twisting fabric into designs reminiscent of old marble sculptures, as well as referencing the precedents set by Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet. Again, there is some overlap with couture, where Dior’s Chiuri pursued similar goals, focusing on freeing the natural figure from constraint. The resort’s bubble hems, puff sleeves, and pant legs are also contributing to freedom of movement and a relaxed atmosphere.
