Barcelona’s fashion week has carved out a niche for itself outside of the conventional calendar of fashion shows and extravagant displays, far from the frantic schedules of the four major international fashion weeks. Catalonia’s fashion week, which was forced to remake itself due to the epidemic, concentrated on digitization as well as two disciplines that highlight quality: sustainability and innovation. For its 30th edition, which was held from October 25 to 28 at the Recinto Modernista in San Pau with 23 designers and businesses in attendance, the event made its long-awaited return to a tangible format.
“The designers are overjoyed since the response has been overwhelmingly positive. Combining two strategies—one centred on digitization to improve communication and the other centred on the physical world from which we originate—has paid off, and we are now reaping the benefits “Keeping in mind the difficulties presented by the current geopolitical environment, said the event’s director Marta Coca.
Although we are well aware that inflation and geopolitical tensions presage a challenging moment for fashion, she added, “It’s a good sign. The sector will “probably see a more challenging and slower than typical fourth quarter despite the Black Friday and Christmas seasons,” despite the industry’s “excellent results” in the first three quarters of 2022.
Used clothing is displayed on the catwalk.
One of the event’s main priorities is sustainability, which is being organised by the Generalitat de Catalunya with a 3 million euro annual budget. “Sustainable clothing has long been viewed as an alternative by consumers with limited financial resources. Because we need to educate consumers about the need to avoid overconsumption and to instead invest in clothing made from sustainable materials, we wanted to improve its reputation “Coca emphasised the platform’s educational mission, which in its most recent edition manifested as its first fashion show featuring secondhand clothing under the name 080 Reborn.
With the assistance of stylists Fermin+Gilles, who were in charge of creating a collection made from second-hand items discovered at stores like Humana, Solidança, Formació I Treball, Flamingos Vintage Kilo, and Las Pepitas, among others, the event was organised in collaboration with the Catalan waste agency (ARC), CCM, and Girbau LAB. As a result, a line with a retro and vintage vibe emerged, with items from companies like Fred Perry, Dior, and Dr. Martens.
“It is crucial to promote used clothing and give it prestige. As some worry, it does not undermine the efforts of designers and won’t affect sales. On the contrary, if consumers spend more money on premium items that may be given a second life in the value chain, the designers with whom we collaborate stand to benefit greatly. There should not be a conflict between trends and upcycling because both have their place “The director emphasised the significance of sustainable apparel.
“Even though 080 Barcelona aims to connect with media sources and provide brands visibility, we still have a responsibility to spread the word and support pricing increases. Reducing mass consumerism and promoting thoughtful, ethical, and high-quality purchases are both crucial “Coca, who believes that participation on public platforms is necessary, made this point.
In order to achieve this, Catalonia’s circular fashion pact is being developed by 080 Barcelona Fashion. This voluntary programme, which strives to establish shared objectives and arrange round tables to better finance and disseminate sustainable fashion, has already attracted the participation of numerous textile producers, sorting facilities, technology centres, and governmental organisations.
“Beginning the next year, brands will face greater demands in terms of sustainability and sizes offered in stores. Those who already operate a specific number of points of sale will be required to establish designated second-hand corners or make worn clothing available for return “Coca was used as an illustration, and it was further stated that by 2025, these criteria would be even more crucial.
Coca argues that given the challenges of persuading businesses to invest and maybe raise their prices with the resulting reluctance of end consumers, “The effects of these increases should be negligible in a few years. In this manner, the profitability of the enterprises won’t be negatively impacted even if the auxiliary lines of business are not yet making a profit.” Added her: “It only takes opening a window for you to see that the temperature is unusual for this time of year. We must take action immediately; we cannot continue to put it off “.
looking for hybrid solutions
The innovative brand LR3 Louis Rubi, established in 2019, combined innovation, art, and fashion to create LR3 Experience, a ten-minute virtual reality excursion that showcased its most recent collection. Throughout the event, the location was accessible to the general public.
Visitors could get up up and personal with the actual silk or velvet clothing, which featured striking contrasts between floral and checkered motifs, in the brand’s presentation room, which was designed to resemble an art gallery.
“While it is true that digital presentations enable us to give a larger diversity of materials and interventions and to have more time to prepare them, we are all glad to return to a physical format,” said Coca.
After the platform has finished gathering participant feedback in December, the event’s future strategy, including its format and timetable, will be established.
The director declared, “In any case, we do not want to make a drastic shift,” but added that she wished to forge partnerships with Barcelona itself.
“We are aware that Barcelona serves as Catalonia’s principal business centre. The municipal council’s assistance in facilitating our fashion shows, opening up venues, and enabling us to forge cross-sectoral alliances would be excellent. The art of living and fashion are closely related fields that may work together and spread throughout the city during fashion week “She remarked while praising the success of Copenhagen’s fashion events.
familiar names and new talent
In any event, there were many well-known designers present throughout fashion week, including Custo Barcelona, Lola Casademunt by Maite, Menchen Tomas, Guillermina Baeza, Lebor Gabala, and Simorra. However, there were also some newer brands there, including Martin Across with its genderless and sustainable designs, Reveligion with its gothic tulle volumes, and Avellaneda with its gorgeous coed suits.
A number of internet firms were also present, including Is Coming, founded by Hoss Intropia creator Constan Hernández, and Amlul, the Galician influencer Gala González’s line of locally made classic clothing. Last but not least, the most extravagant designs were created by Dominnico and Yolancris, two of the most well-known international fashion houses on the Barcelona calendar, who have previously dressed celebrities like Rosala and Beyoncé.