Fashion Updates | Innovative Fabrics

Archroma introduces breakthrough in bio-based textile printing

Published: October 14, 2024
Author: Fashion Value Chain

Utilizing renewable materials* and formaldehyde-free chemistries, the industry-first Archroma NTR Printing System combines newly created pigment black and customized auxiliaries for enhanced sustainability, comfort and durability

Pratteln, Switzerland, October 14, 2024 – For the first time, bio-based pigment printing is now commercially feasible thanks to the introduction of the NTR Printing System by Archroma, a worldwide pioneer in specialty chemicals for sustainable solutions. Using safer chemistry and renewable raw materials, it helps textile and clothing companies lessen their environmental impact while creating vibrant dark hues on comfortable, long-lasting clothing.

Brands looking to produce eco-friendly fabrics with pigments sourced from plants or other natural sources are showing a lot of interest in bio-based pigment printing as an emerging technique. However, color fastness that is on par with synthetic pigments has not yet been achieved by bio-based pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been strong enough to warrant commercial production.

The NTR Printing System from Archroma is the first to use renewable feedstock* for fixing agent, binder, and pigment dispersion. Most importantly, it provides exceptional softness on a variety of materials while guaranteeing good wet and dry rubbing fastness. Furthermore, with exceptional runnability for production efficiency, it is appropriate for the majority of widely used application methods, such as coating, printing, and continuous pigment dyeing.

According to Joaquin Femat, Market Segment Director for Printing at Archroma, “These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort, and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required.”

“This most recent development is an additional illustration of innovation in line with Archroma’s “PLANET CONSCIOUS+” roadmap. Our aim is to create innovative products, systems, and technologies that surpass current market alternatives in terms of sustainability characteristics and provide value. This allows mills and brands to stand out from the competition by offering sustainable solutions that align with their sustainability targets and business objectives.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals.

Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

  • PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
  • HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
  • LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.

“With the launch of the bio-based NTR Printing System, Archroma can now draw on the industry’s most complete portfolio of innovative printing solutions to tailor systems for individual customer needs,” Mr. Femat said. “We remain the global leader in pigment printing, with a history of innovation that includes the first formaldehyde-free pigment printing system, introduced in 2012.”

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