Famed for his vibrant and stylish footwear, Achilles Ion Gabriel is now making waves in the world of ready-to-wear fashion. At Pitti Uomo, he unveiled the inaugural collection of his new gender-neutral brand, showcasing a rebellious blend of clothing, shoes, and accessories. The Finnish designer, also the creative director for Spanish label Camper since 2020, presented a grunge-western style with a dark, Rick Owens twist, giving a fresh take on men’s classics.
The collection featured an array of suits, leather pieces, cargo trousers, denim, and nightwear, all in sun-kissed colors, designed to be worn by both men and women. The models, reminiscent of characters from an Aki Kaurismäki cowboy film, sported santiags in the brand’s signature ash/sky blue color. The looks were completed with faux leather trousers, shearling-lined faux fur coats, long leather gloves, and maxi belts adorned with metal rings, evoking the style of a pistolero’s cartridge belt when used as shoulder straps.
Achilles Ion Gabriel, who has previously crafted garments for Camper, marked his debut collection with oversized volumes and loose cuts, drawing inspiration from Balenciaga’s aesthetic. Coats were creatively cut in half, transforming the lower part into an open-fronted skirt layered over trousers, both crafted from checkered tweed. The collection also featured crumpled fabrics, collar accents on traditional men’s shirts, and a streetwear influence with sweatshirts, baseball caps, and shredded nylon cargos, all highlighting leather pieces.
While some anticipated more daring pieces, the designer’s creative details, like the bold statement ‘move bitch’ on cowboy boot spikes, captured attention. Expected to be a best-selling item, these boots exemplify Gabriel’s unique touch. With support from two financial partners, he manufactures his clothing in Italy and the UK, basing his studio in Paris. This debut collection signifies a bold step into the fashion spotlight for Achilles Ion Gabriel.
