Dr Vidhu Sekhar P
In a conversation with Dr. Sharmila Nagaraj Nandula, author, entrepreneur, and academician with three decades of multifaceted experience in research, teaching, design, retail, and grassroots engagement with weavers and artisans, she shared her insights on the intersections of sustainability, global supply chains, entrepreneurship, and education within the fashion and handloom industry. Her perspectives draw attention to the cultural, social, and spiritual dimensions of handloom textiles, while also examining the practical strategies needed to preserve and promote this legacy in global markets.
Discussing the philosophy of conscious connectivity in weaving, she described it as a deeply mindful practice where the loom itself is revered, and weaving becomes a meditative act of devotion. For artisans, the process is not merely labour but worship, embedding their heart and soul into every fabric. This philosophy, she emphasized, is critical in ensuring fair labour practices and sustainability, and it must be preserved even as global supply chains evolve.
Reflecting on sustainability in global supply chains, Dr. Sharmila explained that the domestic supply chains in the handloom and apparel sector are short and easier to monetize, but the international ones tend to be much longer, complicating financial returns for weavers. Global customers often expect flawless finishing in handloom garments, overlooking the essence that makes handlooms distinctive. The uniqueness lies precisely in the 10–15 percent variation in design and finish, something that fast fashion views as imperfection but which is the soul of khadi and handloom textiles. She pointed out that these so-called “defects” are not flaws but inherent qualities that set handloom products apart from machine-produced fabrics.
When asked about global collaboration, Dr. Sharmila cautioned against mass manufacturing disguised in the label of handloom. She underscored that genuine handloom production moves at its own pace, with a single weaver producing about six to seven meters of fabric per day. Scaling it for mass consumption erodes the spirit of the craft, as weaving is akin to a spiritual practice—a sadhana. Instead, she urged global brands and retailers to treat and position handloom textiles as premium products that deserve respect, authenticity, and recognition rather than commodification.
Discussing the challenges confronting the Indian handloom industry, she highlighted the proliferation of duplicates and machine-made replicas as a major hurdle. As a solution, she suggested giving each loom and fabric a unique barcode that can establish traceability and authenticity, ensuring customers are aware of the source and safeguarding weavers’ livelihoods from imitation markets.
On the role of technology, Dr. Sharmila emphasized that weaving itself should remain untouched by mechanization, as it is a sacred process. Nevertheless, she acknowledged the potential of technology in surrounding areas such as reducing the physical weight of looms, which can significantly improve the longevity of weavers’ careers. In addition, improving the healthcare support available to artisans is vital to preserve their well-being and allow them to continue their craft with dignity. For positioning handloom in the global market, she stressed that the variability of khadi should be celebrated rather than hidden, and communication with international consumers must highlight the uniqueness that every hand-spun, hand-woven fabric carries.
As one of the founding members of the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) Hyderabad, Dr. Sharmila also spoke passionately about entrepreneurship in the fashion industry. She advocated for young entrepreneurs to seek the support of organizations like the MSME and KVIC in encouraging student engagement in entrepreneurship. She urged the Department of Science and Technology (DST) to come forward to support handloom and handicraft start-ups.
For those aspiring to start a venture, her advice was to immerse themselves at the grassroots level, directly working with artisans to truly understand the nuances of craft traditions. Such authentic engagement, she said, provides a strong foundation for creating meaningful and scalable fashion businesses.
Finally, on the question of education and research in handloom and apparel, Dr. Sharmila insisted that sustainability and social responsibility should be central to future explorations. She emphasized the importance of nurturing passionate designers within academia, ensuring that talented professionals are placed in positions where they can inspire, mentor, and equip the next generation of design students with the right values and knowledge. According to her, only when academia and practice come together can the handloom sector flourish sustainably in a globalized context.
Through her reflections, Dr. Sharmila laid out a vision where handloom is not merely seen as a fabric of the past but as a living, evolving craft that embodies tradition, sustainability, and spirituality. She called for deeper respect for the artisans, mindful engagement from global brands, and a new generation of entrepreneurs and educators who can carry forward the heritage while addressing the practical challenges of the present. (Author is an Assistant Professor at the National Institute of Fashion Technology)
