Dr. Muralidhara K S,
Joint Director,
Textiles Committee, Govt. Of India, Ministry of Textiles
Background
The handloom sector is not just a vital economic contributor but a living embodiment of India’s artistic legacy. Across the country, generations of weavers have kept this heritage alive with skill, patience, and pride, producing textiles that reflect the soul of their communities. The sector provides sustainable livelihoods to millions, especially in rural and semi-urban areas, empowering families and preserving age-old traditions.
Handloom textiles constitute a timeless facet of the rich cultural heritage of India. As an economic activity, the Handloom sector occupies a place second only to agriculture in providing livelihood to the people. According to the All India Handloom Census, the total number of households engaged in handloom-like weaving and allied activities is 31.45 lakh (2019-20), working on approximately 28.2 lakh handlooms. The four states of Assam (10.9 lakh), West Bengal (3.4 lakh), Manipur (2.1 lakh) and Tamil Nadu (1.7lakh) account for 18 lakh households. Nearly 88.7 per cent of households are located in rural areas, and 72 percent of workers are female.
The annual production of handloom fabric is estimated to be approximately 6806 Mn.Sq.m which accounts for around 15% of India’s total textile production. Of the total personnel engaged in the production of handloom products, 6.83 lakh people weave Sarees, 7.97 lakh people are engaged in the production of Shawls, Mekhla, Chaddar, Loi, Stole, Scarf and Mufflers. 5.80 lakh workers are engaged in the production of Angavastram, Dhoti, Sarong and Lungi. Another 1.01 lakh people engaged in the production of Bedsheets and other Furnishing clothes. Other products produced on handloom include Dress materials, Shirting, Long cloth, Surgical Bandage, etc.
Through these varieties of products, the traditional hand weavers produce unimaginable creativity on cloth. However, the unregulated use of the phrase “Handloom” has allowed non-handloom products to flood the market, causing misrepresentation and unfair competition. Mass-produced powerloom and mill-made items often masquerade as handloom, eroding consumer trust and placing genuine artisans at a disadvantage. This situation has not only affected the income of traditional weavers but has also blurred the lines between authenticity and imitation. When buyers cannot differentiate between hand-woven and machine-made, the value of genuine craftsmanship diminishes.
Handloom Mark Scheme – The Govt of India Initiative
Understanding these problems, the office of the Development Commissioner for Handloom (O/o DCHL) under the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, has launched the Handloom Mark (HLM) scheme in the august hands of the then Hon’ble Prime Minister of India on 28.06.2006.
The basic objective of the Scheme is to brand India’s handloom products and secure a premium position for them in domestic as well as international markets. The Textiles Committee has been the Implementing Agency of the HLM scheme since its launch in 2006.
Handloom Mark & Logo
The Handloom Mark provides a collective identity to the handloom products and can be used not only for popularising the hand-woven products but can also serve as a guarantee for the buyer. The handloom mark would therefore be a hallmark of powerful creative work that defines the product with clarity, distinguishes it from the competition and connects it with customers. The niche products woven on handlooms and bearing the handloom mark are a very strong marketing tool.
The Handloom Mark logo was developed by the NID, indicating the interlocking of warp and weft yarn, symbolising the collaborative institutes giving their inputs and artisans giving their skills. The Handloom Mark and logo have been registered as Certification Trade Mark under the Trade Mark Act 1999 and therefore restricted to be used only by registered users.
HLM Labels
Handloom Mark Label contains Handloom Mark Logo and an intricate, dynamic QR code for each label. Specially designed polyester taffeta labels containing handloom logo and unique QR Codes are affixed to all hand-woven fabrics and products made thereof.
The QR codes printed on each label trace the label to the producer. This ensures complete originality and genuineness of the product about the loom origin. Through this non-repeatable QR code the traceability is achieved, and also the sustainability goal is achieved. This handloom mark, therefore, acts as a market linkage to the weavers. The labels are currently being sold for 50 paisa per label.
Registration under the Handloom Mark Scheme
Anyone involved in the production of Handloom products can register with the Textiles Committee to avail the benefits of the HLM Scheme. For registration online application can be made through the dedicated portal www.hlm.gov.in. Once the application is received, the on-site verification of the production centre will be conducted by the officials from the Textiles Committee to confirm that the applicant actually owns and produces on Handlooms. Based on the production pattern number of people involved in production and the number of handloom annual label entitlements arrived.
Anyone involved in the production of handloom merchandise, like Individual weavers, Master weavers, Apex & Primary handloom weavers, Co-operative societies, Handloom development corporations, self-help groups, manufacturer–exporters, etc, are entitled to register in the scheme. So far, more than 25,000 users under different categories are registered under the Handloom Mark Scheme throughout the country and more than 24 cr. products are tagged with Handloom Mark Labels, which currently cost 50 paise per label. The registration so far has covered 6 lakhs weavers engaged in weaving on 9.30 lakh handlooms.
