Florence’s Giardino dell’Orticoltura, a charming botanical garden on the city’s edge, transformed into an MM6 Maison Margiela experience for Pitti Uomo 107. The garden’s antique greenhouse, normally a haven of greenery, was bathed in stark white light, a deliberate echo of Maison Martin Margiela’s iconic 2006 Pitti Uomo “white-out.” That past presentation saw the brand completely repaint a theatre, creating an atmosphere of what was described as “force through fragility.”
However, this time, the pristine backdrop served as a striking contrast to the collection itself. Departing from the earlier emphasis on white, MM6 presented a Fall 2025 menswear line immersed in the depths of black. This wasn’t a simple, single shade, but rather a spectrum of tones and textures, ranging from deep burgundy to the matte finish of gaffer tape.
Inside the luminous conservatory, models moved with confident ease, showcasing the collection’s focus on tailored silhouettes and a distinct sense of sensuality. The designs explored a compelling interplay of contrasts. Star motifs appeared as graphic prints, while the plushness of faux mink clashed with the shimmer of lurex, all tempered by refined, almost feminine details. This softer touch was juxtaposed with more traditionally masculine elements like modular gloves and motorcycle helmets. Sharp pagoda shoulders, reminiscent of jazz icon Miles Davis’s signature style, added a powerful edge. Amidst the predominantly dark palette, a vibrant aqua suit provided a surprising and memorable pop of colour.
MM6 Maison Margiela’s presentation at Pitti Uomo conveyed a modern vision of menswear, exploring the duality of the male figure as both the observer and the observed, a dynamic far more nuanced than a simple dichotomy of black and white.
